Having covered Scotch whisky intently for the last six years, I’ve seen some swanky packaging for limited edition bottles. But I’ve never seen anything quite as magnificent as the limited-edition Cognac that Delamain has created to celebrate its 200th anniversary – the aptly-named L’Edition Rare du Bicentenaire.
It’s a 10-litre glass dame-jeanne encased in a mesh of grapes, vines, leaves and birds made from gold-plated brass soldered together with silver. The design is somewhat reminiscent of William Morris prints like the Strawberry Thief but there’s a timelessness about it. One can imagine the design dating back to antiquity.
Rebecca Montgomery from Delamain described how it “tells a story of raising nature’s humble gifts up to heaven.” The birds are a reference to Jacques Delamain, a former cellar master who was also a noted ornithologist.
The painstaking work was done by Maison Goossens, a French jewellers founded in the 1950s by Robert Goossens who was inspired by Byzantine art. Since then the firm has gone on to work with names such as Chanel and Yves Saint Laurent.
The dame jeanne was unveiled at a grand event in Jarnac in September which was followed by a London launch at Goossens shop in Mayfair. Sadly the glass was too fragile to travel though even from the blown-up photo, it was clear that this was something very special. We did, fortunately, get to try a little of the amazing contents. Not always a given at luxury spirits events.
A Cognac house steeped in history
But before the tasting, first we learned a bit about Delamain’s history. The company was founded in 1759 by James Delamain. As with many Cognac families, there’s a British connection. The Delamain family were French protestants who moved to London in the 17th century to escape religious persecution. Delamain prospered, famous in particular for its Pale & Dry XO which is a great favourite with the British wine trade.
The company only produces Cognacs at XO level and above from Grand Champagne vineyards. The firm was in family hands until 2017 when Bollinger took a majority stake in the business. This has led to a return to cultivating vines with 20 hectares in Grand Champagne called Bellevigne.
The aim was to create a “blend that was better than the individual parts,” Charles Braastad
Since the takeover the house has been run by a direct descendant of James Delamain, Charles Braastad. Last year Brastaad succeeded Dominique Touteau, who had been in the role since 1992, as cellar master. At the launch in London, Braastad said that when he first joined the firm 28 years ago, Touteau “gave me a drop of the 1947 on my first day, then he locked it away and I never had another. They were sacred.”
Unlocking the paradis
For the 200th anniversary Brastaad thought it was a fitting time to unlock the paradis, the cellar where the special Cognacs picked out by previous cellar masters were kept and create a blend that pays tribute to his five great predecessors.
The oldest comes from 1893 and was chosen by Jean Delamain. It’s a very floral Cognac that was once enjoyed by a young Steven Spurrier when he did a stage at Delamain. Next up the 1914 was selected by Alain Braastad and known as the ladies’ vintage because all the men were off fighting in the First World War. According to Braastad, this was his father’s favourite year. Then there’s a 1947, “powerful and full bodied, selected by my cousin Patrick Peyrelongue.” This was followed by the 1965 picked by Noël Sauzey, “my personal favourite,” he said and finally the 1969 which was selected by Touteau and Braastad. Most had spent about 55-60 years in cask before decanting into glass demi-johns though the 1914 had been in the wood for an astonishing 80 years.
The aim was to create a “blend that was better than the individual parts.” Not an easy task. Braastad described the component parts as “like difficult old ladies. Sometimes they don’t mix.” It was a process of trial-and-error working with Touteau finding a blend that worked. The resulting Cognac contains a minimum of 15% of each of the parts. It’s not as if there’s just a drop of the 1893 in there.
In addition to the 10-litre dame jeanne, 200 70cl bottles have been filled with an RRP of €6,000. The dame jeanne itself will be at Bonhams online from 19 November to 7 December 2024 and is expected to raise between £83-170,000. It comes with a bottle so that whoever wins the auction can taste the Cognac without opening the precious work of art.
After a lesson in history and art, we were finally given a little drop and I’m pleased to say it was absolutely magnificent. Very much not a tired old woody Cognac of the sort drunk memorably by Rex Motrram in Brideshead Revisited. The nose was surprisingly delicate and floral whereas the palate was muscular, fruity and beautifully balanced. See tasting note below.
Henry Jeffreys (far right) attends the presentation by Charles Braastad
In addition to the fabulously rare bicentenary edition, Delamain is also releasing something slightly more affordable. Called Oiseau Rare, another ornithological reference, Braastad described it as “permanent addition to the range created by Dominique Touteau.” His last blend for Delamain, it contains some very rare long-aged Cognac. The name comes from “expression in France for something remarkable,” he continued. It will cost around £1500.
Remarkable artwork aside, these are beautiful and impossibly rare spirits that, while aimed at the luxury end of the market, don't seem overpriced when you consider that Suntory has just released a 40-year-old Hbiki, a blended Japanese whisky, for £33,000. I’ve said it before, and I’ll keep saying it, Cognac, even at the very top end, is underpriced considering its rarity and sheer quality.
So how were these two special Cognacs tasting?
Delamain Oiseau Rare
No colour added. Adjusted to 42% ABV with some watered-down Cognac.
This has the most amazing nose with apricots, honeycomb, strawberry, orange blossom and a touch of furniture polish. The stone fruit theme continues on the palate with white peaches. It’s fresh, floral and aromatic with a very long finish. Beautiful delicate style. Classic Delamain, in other words.
Delamain L'Édition Rare du Bicentenaire
The nose is so elegant, even a little reticent, with orange peel and orange blossom, cinnamon, muscat grape and apricot. The palate is startlingly different: savoury and robust with some wood tannin, dark chocolate, sandalwood, coffee, leather and baking spices. Extraordinary freshness leading to a long aromatic finish with walnuts.
To bid for the Delamain L'Édition Rare du Bicentenaire go to this page on the Bonhams website .
Delamain Cognac is imported and sold in the UK by Mentzendorff which is a commercial partner of The Buyer. To discover more about them click here.
