An Irishman with a dream, a vineyard and a priest, sounds like the beginning of a joke. For Dermot Sugrue, it was the beginning of a wine story. Sadly, the local birds did not appreciate the difference between a carefully cultivated vineyard and an all-you-can-eat buffet, making short work of the first crop.
Thankfully, the dream survived the feast and eventually became The Trouble With Dreams, one of England's most celebrated sparkling wines.
The dream started with the monastic order of Catholic priests at Our Lady of England Priory in Storrington, West Sussex, who noticed the potential of their land for vine cultivation. Father Paul McMahon approached Dermot with a proposal to establish a small vineyard at the foot of the South Downs. Driven by a forward-thinking mindset, Sugrue enthusiastically agreed to plant vines and produce wine for the priests. He suggested in return that he could take a percentage of the grapes to create his own wine. Father McMahon, delighted by the idea, readily agreed.
The first release from Sugrue South Downs (named Sugrue Pierre at the time) was the 2009 vintage, after the disaster of 2008 bird fest. The priest’s statement had always stuck with Sugrue, though, and when the first bottles were produced they were named after the quiet musing of Father McMahon: The Trouble With Dreams. The 2009 vintage went on sale in 2013 and rapidly gained critical acclaim.
Dermot and Ana Sugrue
The evening was to celebrate not only his sparkling success with some incredible aged bubbles from his cellar but also to celebrate the future not only with sparkling but still as well. Sugrue not only drained his cellar but also drained his Frank Carson joke book with his stories and anecdotes in the best possible way.
We started off with the latest release of The Trouble with Dreams 2022, highlighting Dermot’s precision and pure quality in making sublime world class sparkling wine. This 13th edition is exemplary, a delicious, stunning, pure and classy wine that balances layers of bright flavours with a delicate purity and precise bubbles – a real star.
After this the superlatives and experiences were exceptional – magnums were popping out more often than Dermot’s many speeches!
That mouth-watering line-up in full
A duo of magnums of 2020 & 2010 Trouble with Dreams – the 2020 more masculine and evolving perfectly with insight to the precision and geology of the vineyard whilst the 2010 is sublime, pristine, beautiful, luscious and so well balanced, drinking perfectly especially with the ‘Roasted pumpkin with shallots, chestnuts & tardive’.
The 2010 is a blend of 55% Chardonnay, 40% Pinot Noir and 5% Pinot Meunier, partially fermented in old barriques, of lemon rind and zest, crisp green apple with classy notes of stone fruit, biscuit and white cobb nuts. Delicate bubbles and a creamy feel with a pure, fine, long citrusy finish.
We upped the scales then with Cuvée Boz Blanc de Blanc 2020 from Mount Harry with its electric spiced acidity, youthful feel, and white peach purity. Yuzu, floral, flinty with a wonderful biscuit finish, showcasing its 100% stainless steel upbringing, with three years on lees. Named in memory of his late brother.
Then the holy grail wines arrive the The Cuvée Brendan O’Regan 2018 in bottle that delivered such class and depth, orchard fruit with some bramble apples, oak, texture and elegance, spices and some seduction – pure class.
Next up a magnum of The Cuvée Brandon O’Regan 2016 which for me delivered the whole essence of the evening – this little tinker can make incredible world class sparkling wine – the purity freshness balance and clean-cut notes on this is just sublime – even after 30 minutes the glass still shone with greatness – a real privilege – thank you for sharing.
Cheers to you Dermot and Ana Sugrue!
There was a surprise white (my guess was a youthful Italian Pinot Gris with a blend of Chardonnay from Trento, but why would Sugrue serve an Italian just because we were at an Italian influenced restaurant?) it was, of course, his yet-to-be-released Chardonnay from Crouch Valley. All frills and exciting in its youth, but with enough backbone and clobber to age with grace over the next decade.
There were still reds too – a stunning Crouch Valley Pinot 2024, showcasing how the Pinot had evolved against the 2022, and Never Mind The Gamay 2025, showcasing Pinot Meunier.
Thankyou to Dermot and Ana Sugrue for the invitation to celebrate 20 years of Sugrue with some rather special guests and sublime English sparkling and still wines.
