Michael Brajkovich MW and Roger Jones, Noble Rot, September 2025
Rays Road Vineyard
Rays Road in Hawkes Bay was purchased by Kumeu River in 2017 from John Hancock of Trinity Hills; the vineyard was mainly planted to Sauvignon Blanc but has gradually been replanted to Chardonnay and some Pinot Noir.
Brajkovich explains: “The Rays Road vineyard in Hawkes Bay continues to improve as the new plantings gain maturity. Ripening was pretty much in parallel with Kumeu, which made for a busy time in the winery for an intense period of pressing and fermenting. We are now receiving significant quantities of Chardonnay from the new plantings, based on Clones 15 and 548. These allow for a much deeper and more nuanced expression of the Chardonnay variety than the existing Clone 95 plantings, but still with the zesty minerality on the palate.”
“Similarly, with the Pinot Noir, we now have new plantings of the most up to date Dijon selections from Burgundy; Clones 828 ad 935. Whilst still in very small quantities, it is obvious even now that these will have an enormous positive impact on the quality of our Rays Road Pinot Noir. These are exciting times.”
Rays Road Chardonnay, Kumeu River, 2024
Evolving and getting a Chablis style chalky note, fresh clean stone fruit with a mineral flinty feel, delicate hint of guava, this wine is made in older aged barrels allowing the fruit to shine; as the vines continue to evolve and age there may be a potential according to Brajkovich to seek some single vineyard plots from this Hawkes Bay outlet.
Crémant Blanc de Blancs, Kumeu River
The latest addition to Kumeu’s range of Crémant. Made mostly from the 2018 vintage, with the addition of some reserve/perpetual wine, and spending five years on lees. Crémant was first made on the Estate in 2012, with this Blanc de Blancs now being their flagship. Calling it Crémant gives it a ‘French twist’, whilst keeping inside the law. This is an outstanding sparkling wine showing the classic toasty apple crumble feel, whilst still being focused and fresh, touch of salinity, vibrant and glowing. Layers of texture and favour.
Estate Chardonnay
Drawn from six vineyard sites in the Kumeu region. Three are in Waitakere Rd, one in Matua Rd, one in Hanhams Rd and one around Brajkovich’s house close to Hunting Hill.
Estate Chardonnay, Kumeu River, 2024
Beautifully balanced, hints of floral aromatics, lime, apricots and peaches, white nuts, clean cut with a zippy fresh finish. Class.
Estate Chardonnay, Kumeu River, 2014
Yellow stone fruit, nutty, brioche, lime zest, poached peaches and crumble, lovely balance between the oak notes and stone fruit. This has evolved beautifully.
Coddington Vineyard
Originally owned by Tim and Angela Coddington and now by a Chinese consortium, this vineyard is on a long lease, and has contributed to the Estate Chardonnay since 1998, before being given its very own single vineyard status in 2006.
Coddington Chardonnay, Kumeu River, 2024
Regarded as the ripest and richest of the single vineyard wines, using barrels with a slightly heavier toast, giving way to a luxurious full flavoured wine, lemon curd, oyster shell, peeled ripe yellow peaches.
Coddington Chardonnay, Kumeu River, 2014
Lime, guava, custard, grilled pineapple, savoury umami notes, still fresh and vibrant.
Hunting Hill Vineyard
First planted in 1982, Hunting Hill Vineyard was a significant part of the original Kumeu River Chardonnay blend and provided the richness to the Estate Chardonnay. Overlooking Maté's Vineyard it now holds its own as a single vineyard wine and to some is regarded more highly than the famed Maté's Chardonnay. Single vineyard status since 2006.
Hunting Hill Chardonnay, Kumeu River, 2024
Loved the purity of this wine, lemon and lime curd, delicate aromas of just baked croissant, white flowers, essence of fennel and fresh Madagascan vanilla pod, this is refined and elegant, a wine to age gracefully.
Hunting Hill Chardonnay, Kumeu River, 2014
My word what a beautiful wine, layers and layers of complexity, fruit driven, essence of peeled white nectarines, a touch of salinity gives it a freshness that lifts this wine to a superlative level.
Maté's Vineyard
In 1990, Maté Brajkovich replanted an original vineyard he had bought in March 1944 with Chardonnay vines. The first grapes from this vineyard were harvested in March 1993, the year following Maté's death. The resulting wine was released in November 1994 to coincide with celebrations marking the fiftieth anniversary of the Brajkovich Family’s arrival at Kumeu River.
Maté's Vineyard Chardonnay, Kumeu River, 2024
Focused with mineral chalk notes, refined elegance, there is a complexity to this wine that grows in the glass – you can feel the attributes evolving – this is going to be powerful, luxurious, world class wine.
Maté's Vineyard Chardonnay, Kumeu River, 2014
One of my favourite go-to wines, this is clean and focused, elegant with great purity, a clean-cut classy wine. This is Burgundy Grand Cru standard essence of perfectly ripe, juicy stone fruit, hints of hazelnuts, flint, a touch of tangerine. Just glorious.
And then lunch
I have eaten at Noble Rot (Soho) a few times recently, this certainly was the best to date from the incredible choux buns filled with chicken liver parfait, Tokaji jelly and walnut served with the fabulous Crémant Blanc de Blancs.
Next came a vibrant salad of pear, dandelion, and ricotta which was the perfect tonic to Maté's Vineyard Chardonnay 2024, both in perfect harmony, simple concept but delivered with perfection.
Main course was the Noble Rot classic, roast chicken, morels & vin jaune served with pilaf rice. This succulent rich intense umami dish was matched to a slightly chilled Kumeu River Hunting Hill Pinot Noir 2021 (2022 is the last vintage from this site). The Pinot was bright and clean, focused with a lovely berry note like a young village Burgundy, shame I had not bought more of this on release.
Another delivery to Roger's cellar!
The wines of Kumeu River and imported and sold in the UK through New Generation Wines which is a commercial partner of The Buyer
