They say that imitation is the finest form of flattery. If that’s true, and you’re a producer of Provence rosé, you must walk around with the biggest swollen head imaginable. Winemakers, importers, retailers and sommeliers across the world know an obvious truth, that if a rosé doesn’t look, smell or feel like it comes from Provence then no-one will buy it.
Ok, I’m obviously ignoring those shock pink, sweeter styles that are still insanely globally popular too but, in terms of drier rosé, the average person walking into a supermarket aisle or scanning the shelves behind a bar are looking for that iconic pale pink colour. It’s crazy. Even if it just looks like a “Provence rosé” they trust it. They trust that it’ll offer those dry, fruity, and refreshing flavours that adorn terraces the world over thanks to one of the wine world’s most impressive success stories in recent decades.
It’s that trust that impressed Ray O’Connor MW when first asked to be an ambassador for the Vin de Provence. “It feels a negative thing to say, but as an MW I’m always looking for flaws,” mused O’Connor. “With Provence rosé, however, it’s hard to find them. They always feel ‘of their place’, with great balance.”
Collective approach leads to success
Collective apprach includes world beating wine tourism
That consistency has come from decades of the growers and producers of Provence working together to produce a quality, collective offering to the export market. Since the inception of Côtes de Provence AOC in 1977 we have been sold a little slice of Provençal living and luxury in every glass. O’Connor references the work of the Centre du Rosé in the last 25 years.
“It shows what can happen when everyone buys in and believes in the movement,” enthused the Master of Wine. “Provence has written their own script.”
Jeany Cronk is the founder and COO of the famous Maison Mirabeau. It was this collectiveness that first attracted her to Provence.
“I left London 15 years ago as I saw what was happening and I wanted to be part of it,” revealed Cronk. “Working as I do as both a grape grower and negociant I deal with a lot of people throughout the year, and the united spirit is really evident.”
Far from resting on their laurels, however, the growers and producers of Provence continue to develop their region in order to stay ahead of the notoriously fickle wine drinking market, always on the lookout for something new.
Push to showcase terroir
The limstone terraces of Coteaux Varois
There are three official AOCs of Provence, with Coteaux D’Aix-En-Provence AOC and Coteaux Varois-en-Provence AOC joining the larger Côtes de Provence AOC in 1985 and 1993 respectively. Much work still remains to promote the differences and distinctions between them.
The most recent, Coteaux Varois-en-Provence AOC, sits at a modest 3,000 hectares, producing around 18 million bottles of wine per year. Its 65 wineries and 11 co-op’s sit in the inland hills, splitting the larger Côtes de Provence AOC in two. The vineyards are at altitude but, more importantly, surrounding mountains protect from maritime influence making this a distinctly continental region of fatter, gastro-style wines.
To the West sits the Coteaux D’Aix-En-Provence AOC, named after the famous town which acts as a business hub for the area. This large area is only sparsely planted with 4,300 hectares feeding 73 wineries and 12 co-op’s, with lands stretching from the Sainte Victoire Mountain all the way to the border with the Rhône Valley in the West. The mountains, gaps and valleys help to protect, expose and channel winds such as The Mistral which cool the vines that are otherwise bathed in nearly 3,000 sunshine hours during the year.
And finally to the first AOC in Provence, Côtes de Provence AOC, which remains by far the largest. There’s a nudge over 20,000 hectares producing just under 1 million hectolitres of wine per year, with rosé making up a whopping 92% of that. 352 wineries and 38 co-op’s are spread across the départements of the Var, the Bouches-du-Rhône and the Alpes-Maritime. Its distinct geological patterns (especially from the calcerous North and West to the crystalline rocks of the South and East) and size, made this the obvious candidate to be the first to introduce separate ‘crus’, or the officially titled Additional Terroir Designations.
The ‘Crus’ of Côtes de Provence
Having the catch-all idea of “Brand Provence” has been hugely beneficial for marketing and for producers to support with a collective and consistent quality and brand. Having established such a fabulous legacy already, the time feels right to celebrate the nuances and niches as the vines rise from the Mediterranean basin into the inland mountain ranges.
This is being done with the Additional Terroir Designations (DGCs) across the Côtes de Provence AOC. As you can imagine, winemakers in a region that’s been producing wines for thousands of years have a fair idea of what they think makes their particular area special compared to others. Thankfully, restraint and common sense (something that can be fairly rare in these discussions across the world) has prevailed and we’re starting with just five DGCs, often unofficially referred to as ‘crus’, to begin with.
It’s still quite rare to see them referred to on wine labels for now, but as top indies, sommeliers and wine lovers search for quality and distinction, it can only be a matter of time until more arrive on our shores:
Côtes De Provence - Sainte-Victoire
This DGC has been referred to with distinction since 2005. This mountainous area is much more continental than the Mediterranean climate elsewhere, deep into the Arc Valley and in the rocky foothills of the famous Mont Sainte-Victoire. Poor, shallow clay-limestone soils produce subtle, elegant rosés from fresh altitude sites.
Côtes De Provence - Fréjus
Like Sainte-Victoire, this DGC was first used in 2005. Unlike Sainte-Victoire, this eastern part of Côtes De Provence opens up directly onto the Mediterranean sea, giving more moisture, but almost constant winds. Volcanic, red, sandy-clay soils give extra weight to the maritime salinity of the rosés from Fréjus.
Côtes De Provence - La Londe
To the south of the region and once again opened onto the Mediterranean, La Londe has been referred to since 2008. The sea moderates the range of summer and winter temperatures, but the rainfall is noticeably less than Frejus in the east. The main distinction here is the various outcrops of schist soils, amongst sandy, alluvial soils that add extra mineral bite to the wines.
Côtes De Provence - Pierrefeu
The Pierrefeu DGC came along in 2013, and is arguably the most interesting. Argument for that is that it’s in the far west of the AOC, has direct coastline but heads north into the limestone plateaus of the Var. Both marine and continental climates give producers great blending options and balance, enhanced by the triumvirate of red clay, stone, and brown-loam soils.
Côtes De Provence - Notre-Dames des Anges
The most recent DGC, from only 2019, it’s named after the highest peak in the Massif des Maures and surrounded by a national nature reserve. Cut off from maritime influences by the mountains, this is a much more continental area with cold winters and hot summers, and noticeable diurnal range helping to retain acidity in the grapes.
Allowing grape varieties space to shine
Allowing grapes to ripen with excellent freshness
Also of note is the change in language when referring to the grape varieties used. The likes of Cinsault, Syrah, and Grenache have been well known for years as producing the fruit for blending. But increasingly producers and commentators are referring to certain AOCs or DGCs as being better for one variety as opposed to another.
Grenache, for example, likes the more continental climate of Notre-Dame Des Anges, helping to reach full phenolic ripeness whilst the diurnal range protects that all important acidity. Syrah, which famously “likes a view”, enjoys the windy slopes of Fréjus. Mourvèdre, a fan of calcerous soils, is well suited to the limestone plateau of Pierrefeu. The more local varieties of Tibouren and Counoise are finding more recognition as confidence in their richness and finesse increases.
Of course, producers in each AOC or DGC grow many more varietals in their own regions, and blending is still the basis for the vast majority of wines. There is, however, an increasing pride and ensuing style surrounding the grapes that perform so well in different areas.
“Tibouren is doing really well in Frejus,” noted Château Sainte Rosaline’s Aurelie Bertin. “Everyone grows Syrah and Grenache, but Syrah-dominant regions have more structured, pinker-coloured wines. It’s more and more noticeable.”
A growing focus on these differences in terroir, grape variety and blending options means that the almost lazy notion many of us have of a generic “Provence rosé” style will be increasingly out of step with the reality of nuanced and terroir-specific rosé wines.
3 great Provence rosés to showcase the styles
Maison Mirabeau, Pure, Côtes de Provence, 2023
Grenache-dominant blend (with eight other varieties including Tibouren, Carignan and Rolle) from grapes grown around the slopes of the Sainte-Victoire mountain range. The cool night temperatures and limestone soils produce pronounced, fresh minerality. Beautifully fresh and elegant with fragrant citrus and exotic fruit on the nose, with flavours of pink grapefruit, papaya and ripe peach.
Château Sainte Roseline, Lampe de Méduse Cru Classé, Côtes de Provence, 2023
Great one to try alongside the Maison Mirabeau Pure, as there is much more Cinsault and Tibouren than in this blend. Exceptionally high environmental standards in the vineyard with lots of work done to encourage bees, bats and birds amongst the famous garrigue landscape. An expressive, lively wine as you’d expect from this altitude, with notable fragrant fruit from the grape blend.
Château Paquette, Thémis, Côtes de Provence Fréjus, 2023
A wine produced on the volcanic rocks and decomposed sandstone and clay, this is an expressive Fréjus style that has both complexity and ageability. Paquette prides itself on the spicy notes from TIbouren (part of the blend with Grenache and Mourvèdre), but also the weight and minerality from those volcanic soils. Expressive raspberry, apricot, and pink grapefruit now, this wine could age for almost a decade and that minerality with keep it plenty fresh.
For more information on the Vins de Provence please contact Imogen Mitchell at Cube Communications on imogen@cubecom.co.uk.
Mike Turner is a freelance writer, judge and educator. He has been a regular contributor for The Buyer since 2016.
