“I’m in Europe for the first time for two and half years,” says Capensis winemaker Graham Weerts (pronounced “Ve-erts”).The relief he feels at travelling less and being back in South Africa with his young family after a long spell abroad is palpable. “What I enjoy most comes back to my love for Chardonnay, especially grown at a higher elevation. South Africa has a great opportunity for Chardonnay and I searched for the best sites I could find.”
Simonsberg from Fijnbosch
Spiritually the home for Chardonnay remains in Burgundy. But Weerts is producing top quality premium wines that in an earlier blind-tasting had apparently been mistaken by one taster for a Montrachet.
South Africa is a special place to Weerts. He left 20 years ago to make wine in France and California, so it’s not just a commercial but spiritual experience to have gone back and developed Capensis. The focus has been on the Stellenbosch, Overberg, and Robertson regions in the Western Cape. But “philosophically, Capensis is not limited to these regions – the only limitation is the quality of the individual vineyard site,” Weerts explains.
Capensis is now a family of three wines, all Chardonnay. Capensis, which means “from the Cape”, and owned by Barbara Banke of Jackson Family Wines.
Tasting the Capensis wines
Stefano Pasqual, head sommelier Gordon Ramsay
We have been invited to Gordon Ramsay’s Lucky Cat restaurant in Mayfair to learn about the new venture. We sit at the chef’s table and enjoy wines selected to pair with a special East Asian tasting menu.
The Capensis Silene 2020 highlights the nuances and profound flavour profile that can be found in the Stellenbosch winemaking region. A blend from the Fijnbosch vineyard and neighbouring mountain vineyards, the 2020 Silene has enticing aromas of white nectarine, toasted meringue, and citrus blossom. On the palate, juicy stone fruit flavours are complemented by bright acidity, complexity, and a pleasing saline finish.
Next we taste the flagship premium Capensis 2020 Western Cape Chardonnay. In contrast to the Silene, the Capensis 2020 comes from no fewer than five vineyards (69% Fijnbosch Estate Vineyard, 19% Nooitgedacht Vineyard, 5% Kaaimansgat Vineyard, 5% Vleiplaas Vineyard, 2% E. Bruwer Vineyard). It is crafted to age and gain complexity over time. The wine currently shows shavings of tangerine citrus, river stone minerality leaving a mouth coating of acidity with lightly toasted brioche.
“Quality is absolutely key to me”, says Weerts.“I want our Chardonnay to absolutely compare and compete with the best from Burgundy. We’re aiming at fine diners who are wanting to explore wines away from the more traditional old-wine areas. I believe they won’t be disappointed.”
Capensis Fijnbosch Chardonnay 2019 seeks to showcase the purity from a singular site within the Stellenbosch district and is only produced by Weerts during exceptional vintages. Fruit for the wine is sourced exclusively from the estate Fijnbosch vineyard. Planted at nearly 600 metres, this vineyard boasts the highest planted vines in the Stellenbosch district.
Special consideration is exercised in the selection of the vines contributing to the blend to ensure depth and finesse. The 2019 Fijnbosch Chardonnay opens with aromas of lemon posset and gunflint. Full on the palate, this wine boasts peach and lime zest notes complemented by crushed oyster shell minerality and salinity. It is limited in availability with only 125 cases of this wine produced in 2019.
We are also teased with another scarce Capensis, a Western Cape 2015 vintage for which only library stock is available. This was aged for 10 months in 100% French oak, 41% of it new. Simply delicious, it has a luscious texture and a balanced bright acidity.
"Quality is key" - Graham Weerts, Gordon Ramsay Lucky Cat, London
Dalkeith is a new, smaller venture for Weerts with three wines two Chenin Blanc and a Syrah. Dalkeith, named after an iconic waterhole in the Kalahari, was inspired by a determination to craft wines from 50 year-old dryland bush vines. The dryland bush vines force their roots deep into decomposed granite soils, so fine, that this inland vineyard resembles beach sand. Mario Damo is the winemaker here.
Weerts loves his life in South Africa as he again puts down his roots. He proudly announces he also owns four Brangus cattle, hardy, handsome beasts apparently, which he hopes one day to make as noteworthy as his wines.
Capensis Wines and Dalkeith are distributed to the on-trade by Fells, which is a commercial partner of The Buyer. To discover more about them click here.
