Earlier this autumn at The Don restaurant in London’s City district, two iconic Riesling family estates met up to present some special collaborative wines. Sam Barry represented the Jim Barry family from Clare in South Australia and Ernst Loosen represented the Weingut Dr Loosen estate from Mosel in Germany. The friendship started back in 1995 when Peter Barry met up with Ernie in London at The London Wine Fair. Now Peter’s son’s Sam and Tom are very much at the helm of the Barry production.
Ernst Loosen and Sam Barry (l-r), London, October 2025
I joined these two Riesling legends to taste a joint venture that had to go through a few twists and turns with some parts of the plan not adhered to as closely to the blueprint as set out, notably with the young Australian guns going with a stelvin closure much to Loosen’s despair. However, the results despite this ‘oversight’ or ‘masterstroke’ are exceptional.
In 2015 the two families came up with the idea of overlaying Loosen’s GG winemaking on the fruit from the Wolta Wolta property in Clare. Loosen sent out a 3,000L neutral barrel which arrived for the 2016 harvest. The first Wolta produced was the 2016 but this will be released for the first time in 2026 as a 10-year-old release.
The first Wolta release was the 2017, which hit the market in 2020. What began as a friendship between Ernst Loosen and the Barry family turned into a project that pays homage to winemaking techniques and vineyard practices between the two families, and the formation of a wine that “exists in a class all of its own” or GGDU – Grosses Gewachs Down Under!
This launch, however, was for the new LoosenBarry Slate Hill Riesling 2023, but included a selection of vintages from the established Wolta Wolta range.
The name Slate Hill derives from the German word ‘Schieferhügel’, evoking the steep vineyard slopes of the Mosel region and Wolta Wolta in the Clare Valley.
This wine is crafted using wild fermentation and aged on lees in tank for two years, enhancing its complexity and character.
Wines tasted
Slate Hill Riesling, 2023, LossenBarry, Clare, Australia
Gentle floral and rich fruit style with some jasmine tea, spice and texture, on the mid-palate a fruit basket of guava, white peaches, lime curd with kaffir lime and clementine zest, the finish is focused with the flinty mineral note. This retails at around £25.99 which is one third of the cost of the Wolta Wolta range.
Wolta Wolta Riesling, 2016, LoosenBarry, Clare, Australia
Beautiful seamless, this has aged perfectly; it is a beautiful masterpiece. Will be released for the first time in 2026 as a 10-year-old release.
Wolta Wolta Riesling, 2017, LoosenBarry, Clare, Australia
On the nose a fresh saline sea breeze then lemon and lime blossom, flinty, textural and complex, layers and layers of perfect, pure essence of Riesling… magical. Bottled in 2019 and first released in 2020.
Wolta Wolta Riesling, 2022, LoosenBarry, Clare, Australia
Bright, fresh, clean notes of exotic fruit, ginger and lemon grass, followed by peeled white peaches and nectarines, I love the purity and mineral focus on this, an exemplarily made Riesling.Latest release.
Loosen also makes an Australian-style Riesling in Germany, made with grapes from the Erdener Treppchen Vineyard in Germany, is called Walhalla, (pronounced Valhalla) named after the majestic hall ruled over by Odin in Norse mythology. This is not Loosen’s first collaborative, having made the “Eroica” Riesling in partnership with Chateau Ste. Michelle from Washington State which was launched in 1999.
Next month Roger Jones samples a 10-year vertical of LoosenBarry's Wolta Wolta Riesling.
Wines imported by Hallgarten & Novumn Wines, which is a commercial partner of The Buyer. To discover more about them click here.
