I think I have identified a phenomenon at tastings, at least at those featuring high end French wines: let’s call it Condrieu Cluster Syndrome, clear evidence that I’m far from alone in my love of that famous Rhône wine. It goes like this – people are spaced intermittently across the tasting room, as you’d expect, except for where the Rhône whites are located, where there is a distinct crowd. This then evolves into a confused gaggle as people struggle to get a taste from what is often just the one bottle of a much-prized Viognier.
The phenomenon was particularly apparent at the recent Yapp Brothers Spring Tasting at 67 Pall Mall for good reason - there was a trio of three outstanding Rhône whites on show, the headliner a Château-Grillet 2022, the holy grail of Viognier, made in tiny amounts on granite soil, in its own unique AOC that precludes it from actually calling itself a Condrieu. There was an almost spiritual silence from the tasters - this truly is a sensational wine, saline, smooth and generous on the palate with suggestions of honeysuckle and almond, yet still clearly very young.
“These wines will last until the end of time,” a fellow taster said almost mournfully, gazing at the final drops in his glass.
Next to it, a delicious Condrieu from Christine Vernay, Les Terrasses de L’Empire 2023, one year younger but very much in its prime, a mineral backbone supporting a floral, apricot and peach palate. And next to it, another stunner – Domaine Jean-Louis Chave L’Hermitage 2020, a delicious Marsanne/ Rousanne blend, very full bodied, with 14.5% abv and a long, generous and complex palate.
Three great desert island wines then, showing that when it comes to great French wine, and especially the Rhône, Yapp Brothers really knows its stuff.
Yapp CEO Tom Ashworth – coincidentally the stepson of founder Robin Yapp – says the secret of the business lies in it staying true to Robin’s dream when he established the business in Mere in Wiltshire back in 1969. A dentist, Robin travelled regularly to France to buy wines that were unavailable in the UK. His initial focus was the Rhône and the Loire – regions he thought offered excellence and value – adding Alsace and Provence in the 1980s before taking in pretty much all of France in the 1990s, including lesser-known regions like Corsica and Jura.
“Right from the start, as today, the focus was on sales to restaurants but also to private clients – the aim was always to be best in class,” he says, adding that it was this balance that saved them during the pandemic.
“The on-trade pretty much ground to a halt but our private clients seemed to be drinking more at home, and better, and experimenting more,” he recalls.
Yapp Brothers now offers wines from around 100 estates, 80 of them French (some New World, German and Spanish producers have been added), typically family-owned with an annual output of between 150,000-300,000 bottles. It is a member of The Bunch grouping, reflecting its commitment to the independent wine trade and to smaller producers, with direct sales and the on-trade both seen as key.
“We think it’s important to stay focused which is why both sides of the business remain important to us. People appreciate the personal touch and our deep understanding of France,” he says, adding that in 2024 Yapp Brothers moved from Mere to near Yeovil in Somerset. Not far in miles but proof that despite all the challenges, business is good with it now employing 15-20 people.
“We’d simply outgrown the site at Mere,” he says.
All that said, he admits things in the wine industry are tougher than he’s ever known them to be, with last year the first ever that they didn’t break even.
“I think it’s a combination of everything – inflation with prices and costs up in the midst of an already existing cost of living crisis. On top of that, energy prices, national insurance rises, minimum wage increases, duty increases, even costly new packaging requirements which we have to meet,” he says.
So, One Battle After Another.
How does Ashworth see the future? He reckons wealthier people are leaving the UK which poses questions regarding the long-term outlook for the on-trade but, at the same time, people are spending more on drinking at home, with the wines on Yapp’s wine list offering lots of decent stuff to chose from.
So, which were my favourites, aside from the three impressive Rhône whites mentioned in the opening para? Here’s a baker’s dozen from the 80 being shown.
Vignerons Ardéchois – IGP Ardéche: Yapp Rosé 2025 (Rhône)
A youthful, joyous pink with suggestions of strawberry and cherry on a nicely balanced palate. Very good value.
Domaine Maby - Tavel La Forcadière 2025 (Rhône)
There’s something about the appealing dark pink colour and pronounced phenolic grip of Tavel Rosé and this organic one doesn’t disappoint – full bodied and spicy, lots of character.
Château Simon – Palete: Rosé 2024 (Provence)
A serious pink wine made from Syrah, Grenache and Carignan and some lesser-known local grapes like Manoscan. There’s a lot going on here with red berry fruit to the fore. This feels and tastes like a Tavel but with more minerality and complexity. Very decent.
Vignerons Ardéchois – IGP Ardéche Viognier Grés du Trias 2024 (Rhône)
Yup, another viognier but this one offering incredible value: fruit forward, lots of honeyed peach and exotic fruit on the palate, some complexity. Elegant and fresh.
Clos Sainte-Magdeleine – Cassis White 2024 (Provence)
Rather intriguing white made from Marsanne, Clairette and Ugni Blanc. Very elegant with suggestions of wild herbs on a long, slightly oily palate.
Buisson Battault – Meursault Le Limozin 2022 (Burgundy)
This is lovely, with all the structure and complexity you’d expect in a great Meursault – there’s a flinty acidity here but also some nice peach and apricot aromas, with a long, vanilla-tinged finish.
Fredéric Magnien – Fixin Rouge 2021 (Burgundy)
From one of the lesser-known Côte de Nuits appellations, an AOP which Yapp says has been a beneficiary of climate change with the warmer climate enabling more generous wines. This is one of those: showing very well with lovely red forest fruits on the palate with an elegant, smooth long finish. Good value too.
Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt – Riesling Josephshöfer GG 2018 (Mosel)
An excellent value Gross Lage from an estate that was until 1858 part of the Josephshöfer monastery, this delicious Mosel is made by a Trier-based family with a long tradition of winemaking in the Mosel, Saar and Ruwer. Delicious stone fruit and firm minerality on a long palate. Very classy Riesling.
Domaine Jean-Louis Tissot – Poulsard 2023 (Jura)
Light ruby red with suggestions of spice and strawberry on the palate, this is a great introduction to the Jura from a highly regarded producer. Grab some Comté to accompany it.
Domaine Saint-Gayan – Côtes du Rhône Villages L’Oratory Blanc Sablet 2024 (Rhône)
A dazzling, full on blend of Viognier, Bourboulenc, Clairette, Roussanne and Grenache Blanc, this is fruit-driven, with peach and apricot flavours supporting a long floral palate. This white from the village of Sablet in the overwhelmingly red Gigondas region, is a rarity from one of the oldest estates in the region (since 1709) but good value and worth seeking out. The vines for this are over 50 years old but, according to Christian-Yves Carré de Lusançay, under threat from climate change.
“When my father-in-law did the harvest 25 years ago, it was usually mid-October. Now, it’s early September or earlier. It doesn’t leave much time for holidays,” he jokes.
Domaine Alain Graillot – Crozes-Hermitage Blanc 2024 (Rhône)
Another delicious Rhône white, 80% Marsanne and 20% Roussanne, this is light and bright, with a fine backbone of minerality supporting the fruit. Under screwcap, this is very fresh and immediate.Pouring the wines, Antoine Graillot says that the vineyard established by his father recently celebrated its 40th anniversary.
“We’ve been in the Rhône 40 years, in Morocco (where they make a decent Syrah du Maroc amongst other wines) for 20 years and in Beaujolais (where they revived an old vineyard to make two Beaujolais and a Fleurie) just ten. We like to stay busy!”
Domaine A. Clape – Cornas 2016 (Rhône)
Northern Rhône Syrah can be pretty austere when it hasn’t reached a certain age but this ten-year-old Cornas is seriously impressive, showing red and black fruit and spice. Domaine Clape has been producing quality wines since 1949 and some of the vines used for this Cornas are over 60 years old.
Domaine de Trévallon – IGP Alpilles 2016 (Provence)
These two wines were adjacent to each other but couldn’t have been more different. Domaine de Trévallon is located in what in Provence is a vinous backwater – the ancient (and maybe haunted) old town of Les Baux. Apparently winemaker Eloi Dürrbach wasn’t happy with the results from the usual Midi grape varieties so used Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon to make this spicy, full on red with flavours of dark berry fruit, liquorice and cedar. Quite dense, probably with years ahead of it.
