Sake ONO (pronounced On’Oh – not Oh’No!) is very respectful of the ancient craft of sake brewing. The centuries-old family-owned Japanese brewery in Niigata in the foothills of the Japanese Alps was established in 1548.
Sake ONO is a Junmai Daiginjo, the type described as ‘the ultimate’ in premium sake. It is made from 50% polished rice, the brewery’s own cultivated yeast and water from mountain streams of melting snow running through the property.
But whilst admiring tradition, the sake-loving owners (American tech investors and entrepreneurs) couldn’t be more modern in outlook. They are passionate to change the way sake is enjoyed and perceived.
The next big thing? American CEO Lana Buchanan
Sake is often referred to as a “Japanese rice wine,” but, actually, it doesn’t fall into any of the categories of ‘wine, beer or spirits’. Rather, sake is its own drink category. It is not a distilled but a brewed alcohol made in a complex process from fermented rice juice. Rice grains are polished, milling off layers of protein and fat to reveal the starch within. The rice is then washed, soaked, and steamed. Essential to sake brewing, koji (rice mould) transforms the rice’s starch into sugar, and ferments with the yeast and spring water to create a clean, umami-rich alcohol.
It’s not the first time I’ve been to a sake tasting recently and I wonder if Sake ONO is really capable of starting a new trend.
American CEO Lana Buchanan has great drinks and spirits credentials with over 20 years’ experience working in the drinks industry (think Diageo, Pernod, Bacardi, Campari) and was part of the massive global effort behind Aperol’s take-off. She has no doubts: “I believe sake will be the next thing everyone will be talking about and curious to try. Sake ONO is crisp and dry and when it’s chilled stands alone very well. Or it shines as a low ABV alternative in favourite cocktails.”
Sake ONO is now available in up-market US city bars and hotels in New York, Miami, the Hamptons and the West Coast. And Buchanan is thrilled that it’s now featuring in celeb events such as the New York Fashion Week and glitzy James Bond celebrations.
Pairing sake at the Chiltern Firehouse
At the Chiltern Firehouse (celeb spotting included actor James Corden), we were first served chilled Sake ONO in a wine glass deftly paired with crudities, fried chicken, steak tartare and crab donuts. It has fresh honeydew notes with subtle hints of lemon peel, white flowers and green apple. It also works well with charcuterie and cheese too, explains Buchanan who admits to being a shameless fan of the New York deli Eataly!
Just how well Sake ONO pairs with a wide variety of cuisine was demonstrated with the sumptuous selection of main courses. This was a quite a revelation with dishes as diverse as rib-eyed steak, grilled cod and pasta al forno.
We’re trying Sake ONO-based cocktails, including ‘Spritz in Time’ made with Sake ONO, Italicus Rosolio di Bergamotto, yuzu, basil, mint and Fever Tree Soda Water.
Then came the ‘Evening Refrain’ cocktail – a take on a Martini. Made with Sake ONO, Orientalist Gunpowder Gin, Poetry Vodka and umami bitters, this was stunning with the desserts of crème brûlée and tiramisu.
Sake ONO has created over 50 different cocktail recipes combining tradition with a daring twist. For example, ‘One Longer Day’ is a take on Daiquiri, made with Sake ONO, Equiano Rum, grapefruit, lime and maraschino.
Sake ONO has an ABV of just 15%, much lower than many other spirits such as tequila, whiskey, rum and gin. So it has instant appeal for those Gen Z low-no seekers. The bottle is sleek, the label is made from rice paper and a lot of thought has gone into the stopper design to make mixologists’ life as easy as possible. The top wrapper peels off easily and after a pour the stopper has a leak-proof seal meaning bottles can be safely stored even horizontally.
Sake comes in multiple varieties, flavours and sweetness levels. The essence of
Sake ONO is fresh, dry and with a clean finish. But Sake ONO is ambitious and they have plans to create a new, surprise sake style and flavour each year. This spring they will be launching an exclusive series called ‘Rare’, selecting a different brewery each time and producing just 12,000 bottles. They also have their eye on creating a sparkling sake.
Sake is one of the oldest alcoholic beverages and has been a cherished pour in Japan for over 2,500 years. Sake ONO’s ambition is to now redefine the category. So, is sake soon to feature on every wine list, bottle shelf and cocktail menu? Best watch this space.
The UK trade distributor for Sake ONO is Drinks One. RRP for a 72cl bottle is £54.95.
