Although Australian Chardonnay does not have the same reputation as those from Burgundy or California, State by State was a tasting that set about putting the record straight. It highlighted how Australian Chardonnay has evolved particularly over the last decade, demonstrating its potential in producing premium and complex wines.
Australian Chardonnay has come on quite a journey from the heavily oaked, rich styles of the 1990s, through the lean, vertical wines that followed. Since then, producers have been practising different techniques to create styles of wine that still have freshness and elegance, but now have more flesh on the bones.
Grouped by regions within Australia, State by State captured a range of Chardonnays which highlighted their regional nuances and characteristics but also demonstrated age-ability. Most of the producers showcased two vintages, demonstrating the influence of different weather conditions and in some cases different stylistic choices.
Margaret River, Western Australia
Cullen ‘Kevin John’ Wilyabrup Chardonnay - 2023 and 2018
Cooler temperatures were experienced in 2023. The low yields and small berry size produced concentrated flavours with a lovely balance of acidity with the citrus fruit, stone fruit, biscuit and cream from the malolactic conversion. Comparatively, the 2018 had more pronounced fruit aromas, with more texture, a deeper yellow colour and a long finish.
Cherubino Ovale Gingin Chardonnay - 2020 and 2023
The 2023 vintage has rich fruit on the nose, this fruit-forward Chardonnay has a full body, nice balance and well-judged acidity. The 2023 is slightly smokier, and a fruit-forward, approachable style.
Leeuwin Estate Art Series Chardonnay - 2020 and 2012
One of the founding wineries in the Margaret River region, Leeuwin Estate has an international reputation for producing fine wines. Aromatic on the nose but savoury in the mouth, the 2020 vintage Chardonnay has mineral acidity and salinity alongside lemon curd and lime notes. The 2012 has a pronounced and rich nose, and a textured palate. These wines both have a beautiful balance of savouriness with citrus fruits and aromatic spices.
Passel Estate Chardonnay - 2018
Originally selling grapes to other producers, the Passel Estate began making its own wines relatively recently. 10 hectares of the bushland is reserved for a Possum Sanctuary. Its 2018 vintage produced a lovely wine with notes of citrus, pear, white fruit and brioche (at a very reasonable price).
Adelaide Hills, South Australia
Penfolds Reserve Bin A Chardonnay - 2023 and 2019
I was impressed by the Penfold’s wines from Adelaide Hills; the 2023 Bin A Chardonnay had a pronounced nose of biscuit and butter. It is a very well-balanced wine with a nice acidity, fruit and texture. The 2019 had even more powerful aromas with more body, more smoke due to a higher proportion of new oak and lots of brioche from the lees stirring.
Tapanappa Tiers Vineyard Chardonnay - 2023 and 2018
The 2023 was a cool vintage and has an aromatic floral nose. On the palate it is a crisp and fresh style of Chardonnay, fruit-forward with citrus and green fruit. The 2018 is much riper, due to the warm and dry conditions. It has distinctive smoke aromas from the 33% new French oak barriques, a yellower colour and flavours of cooked fruit whilst remaining crisp and refreshing due to the high acidity.
Yarra Valley, Victoria
Giant Steps Sexton Vineyard Chardonnay - 2024 and 2017
This 2024 vintage saw ideal conditions producing a wine well-balanced with flavour and acidity. There is a touch of cream and butter from 20% malolactic conversion, alongside red apple notes with salinity on the mouth. The 2017 saw a cooler summer but a perfect autumn, resulting in riper flavours, with an attractive biscuit note from the lees.
Yabby Lake Single Vineyard Chardonnay - 2018
Yabby Lake’s focus is not to have too much oak but craft a wine which expresses the vineyard. 2023 was a cool vintage, producing a fruity wine with citrus and apple notes and a nice mouthfeel. The 2018 saw a warm summer with early picking required to retain the acidity and fresh fruitiness.
Beechworth, Victoria
Giaconda Estate Vineyard Chardonnay - 2022
At 400m altitude, this vintage was cool and wet influenced by the La Niña weather conditions. This wine has a lovely minerality and salinity accompanied by a buttery undertone from the malolactic conversion. It has rich, pronounced aromas due to the fermentation in 30% new oak barriques. Its acidity is nicely balanced, resulting in a lovely roundness on the mouth.
Tasmania
Stargazer Chardonnay - 2023 and 2018
These Chardonnays both had fresh notes of lemon, grapefruit and cooked apple. The 2023 has a nice balance of fruit and acidity, with the 2018 providing more body and brioche notes.
Tolpuddle Vineyard Coal River Valley Chardonnay - 2023
The 2023 is an aromatic and intense wine due to the grapes being left on the vines for a longer time, with smoky notes from the toasted barrels. It has a particularly mineral nature to it, alongside citrus and green fruit. The 2018 also retains the freshness and high acidity, demonstrating its ageing potential.
New South Wales
Tyrrell’s Sacred Sites HVD Old Vines - 2023 and 2015
Both vintages are produced in a fruit-forward style with no malolactic fermentation. The 2023 is focused on fruit purity with fresh citrus and green apple, whilst the 2015 is richly fruity with pronounced aromas, also providing an excellent expression of the fruit.
