The rules of American whiskey are being rewritten. Quite literally - especially when it comes to American single malt. When the IWSC panel touched down in Bardstown, Kentucky, the bourbon capital of the US, there was a tangible excitement for this newness. While the roots of the style can be traced back to the 1990s, it’s only in the last decade or so that the American single malt category has taken hold across the US.
The IWSC panel featured leading UK and US spirits experts, importers, producers and distillers
Some producers have one eye on Scotland, producing in-line with Scotch Whisky Association rules. Others have struck out on their own accord, promoting malt whiskey that holds a distinctive American twang. The results of both philosophies were tasted in Kentucky, at a time when the official definition of the style is awaiting approval from the Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau (TTB).
It was over two years ago, in July 2022, that the American Single Malt Commission formally submitted guidelines for approval. And the rules, which most makers were on board with, promote both a classic single malt style while allowing for regionality to develop. A mash bill of 100% malted barley, distilled entirely at one distillery with mashing, distillation and maturation all taking place in the US feels straightforward.
So too do the requirements for casks to be no larger than 700 litres, a maximum distillation strength of 80% ABV and a minimum bottling strength of 40% ABV. Interestingly, there’s no mention of oak specifically, as there is for single malt production in other parts of the world.
And yet, producers, distributors, retailers and consumers are still waiting for confirmation from the TTB. Despite the quality of the whiskeys coming through – as tasted by the panels in Kentucky – it’s causing some anxiety. What’s the hold up? And will it confuse whiskey drinkers?
A ‘hugely exciting’ movement
It’s a big question, and one with many perspectives but no clear answer. But for the judging panel, it almost didn’t matter. When we gathered at Bardstown Bourbon Co., our home for the three days of assessing in September 2024, the whiskeys spoke for themselves.
Ready for action: The IWSC American Whiskey judging panel
The contingent was led by Dawn Davies, buying director at Speciality Drinks, alongside Richard Paterson, The Dalmore master blender. I was delighted to join Dr Emma Walker, Johnnie Walker master blender, Shannon Tebay, beverage director at Outernet Live Venues, Guy Hodcroft, Bordeaux Index buyer, plus spirits communicator Nate Gana, Bardstown hospitality and product development VP Dan Callaway, Southern Glazer’s senior external communications director Bridget Albert, Potter Jane master blender Jane Bowie, whiskey historian Caroline Paulus, and WhiskyCast founder Mark Gillespie.
The innovation and diversity of flavour on show at the IWSC Kentucky tasting, especially from emerging categories like American single malt, was outstanding. One of the highest scorers in the entire competition, scooping an impressive 98 points, was Virginia Distillery Company’s Cabernet Cask Select American Single Malt Whiskey. Well-crafted and intricate with vibrant red fruit notes on the palate, it enchanted the judging panels.
So too did Balcones Distilling’s Montilla Single Malt, a gold medal winner with 95 points. The triple sherry cask finished expression exploded with rich, fruity, chocolate and almond notes. Iowa-based Cedar Ridge’s Quintessential Signature Blend (a single malt, just to be clear) makes use of wine and Port casks to pack in the plump, grape-like notes with a subtle wisp of smoke. Formal definition or not, these makers know what they’re doing.
“I am hugely excited about the movement within American whiskey right now,” said Speciality Drinks’s Dawn Davies. “Still not ratified by the TTB but will hopefully be this year, this category should open the door to a whole new single malt drinker. Not only has it not got the association with one section of society, it has that American approachability and drinkability. As a gateway to single malt these distilleries have a real opportunity to grasp hold of a new market.”
Bold flavours
The judging panel was able to taste and see the huge developments taking place across American whiskey, single malts and bourbons
It’s not just American single malt that were found to be leading the charge at the judging sessions in Kentucky. There was a huge prevalence in cask finishes, both for single malts, bourbons and other styles. Looking at bourbon specifically, it’s a development that adds a zip of freshness to established category, says Davies.
“We are seeing innovation on the bourbon front with more people playing around with interesting heritage grains within their mash bills and some wonderful cask finishes from beer casks to wine and maple,” she notes. “It is opening up a door to a whole range of new flavours in the category.”
Bordeaux Index’s Guy Hodcroft agrees. “It was certainly encouraging to see so much ambition from makers right across the USA. The big names and classic styles scored consistently highly, but there is much to commend the smaller, and newer, distillers who are pushing what’s possible and releasing genuinely novel whiskeys.
"While in some cases some additional cask ageing or finesse would make intriguing releases even stronger, it’s exciting to see so much aspiration. It bodes well for the future of American whiskey.”
Which of these more esoteric expressions stood out? The Gold medal-winning Chattanooga Whiskey Experimental Batch 033 Triple Peat Blended Whiskey, Phillips Distilling Company
Revel Stoke Shellshocked Roasted Pecan Flavored Whisky. Red Line Whiskey’s ambitious Cigar Blend Straight Bourbon Whiskey Finished in Armagnac, Sherry, Cognac & Amburana Cask picked up a Silver, as did Rabbit Hole’s Founder's Collection Mizunara Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey. In four whiskeys alone, the breadth of experimentation is profoundly evident.
Storm clouds or tail winds?
Dalmore's Richard Paterson was one of the UK's top spirits figures to take part in the judging
Despite the clear opportunities and hugely exciting developments from a product development perspective, the path forward for American whiskey is not clear-cut. The lack of definition for American single malt, ‘protectionist’ policies that may well have the adverse effect, and the ongoing consumer spending crunch linked to inflation could well prove an unpalatable cocktail for the sector.
“American whiskey is on the edge of an interesting precipice, one that is exciting but also has a cloud hanging over it in the form of the new president with potential tariffs on the horizon,” fears Davies. “I hope this new innovative American whiskey scene can ride these storms and emerge as a pioneer or the new face of whiskey drinkers.”
From Bardstown Bourbon Co. to the vast new Heaven Hill distillery build, investments show that makers are betting that the storms will pass. Regardless of short-term challenges, the quality of American whiskey is speaking for itself. Based on the bottlings tasted during the Kentucky judging, the world looks set to get a collective taste for single malts, bourbons and beyond.
The full results of the 2024 IWSC Judging in Kentucky can be seen here: IWSC Judging in Kentucky: medal results revealed | IWSC.
