In his opening remarks, Serbia’s president, Aleksandar Vučić, spoke about 'Wine Vision by Open Balkan’ potential global reach. With professionals and distributors coming from all the over world, including key markets such as Italy, the US, China Australia, South Africa, Lebanon, Mexico, France, the Netherlands, Tunisia, Uganda and the UK.
Having long relied upon others to tell the story of its winemaking renaissance, Wine Vision is taking the lead in showcasing what the region offers in an increasingly competitive wine world. While much light is shone on Croatia and Slovenia, the rest of the former Yugoslavia remains relatively neglected, despite its proud wine heritage, recent investments in modernisation, and specific domestic varieties. Wine Vision is beginning to redress the balance, with a clear sense of initiative and momentum.
Education for all
An impressive list of masterclasses offered thematic and tangible insights. Christopher Burr MW provided valuable advice on exporting to the UK, Zsuzha Toronyi and Caroline Gilby MW presented marketing and sales strategies for wine in competitive markets, and Eniko Kiraly described innovative and sustainable solutions for wine closures.
These are domains in which many winemakers from Serbia, North Macedonia, and Albania are often learning on the job, grappling with often complicated regulations and shifting consumer preferences.
Indigenous grapes such as Prokupac and Tamjanika (or Temjenika) also featured prominently. Caroline Gilby MW and Igor Luković, a wine critic from Serbia, each spoke about rare varieties from Serbia, while Simon Woolf described the ‘Amber Revolution’ taking place from Georgia to the Balkans.
The emphasis on autochthonous grapes is part of a coherent strategy to promote the region’s uniqueness. There are many outstanding examples of international varieties and blends, but it is native sorts that provide a novel and compelling story for wine consumers, particularly in more developed markets.
The development of Prokupac, Grašac, and Vranac - to name but three - over the past decade demonstrates their potential in the hands of winemakers experimenting with different approaches. While more needs to be done to develop the specific identities of the regions from which they originate, there is a view that a lack of strict regulation allows winemakers to innovate more freely.
Two experts from North Macedonia - Zvonko Herceg and Jadranka Klarić - explored the traits of Vranec (or Vranac) and Stanušina, respectively. Croatia’s Saša Špiranec spoke about GROW, an acronym composed of the names Grašac/Graševina, Olaszrizling, and Welschriesling. For many in the audience, these were new and exciting discoveries.
Award winning
The Open Balkan Wine Trophy has become a badge of honour for wineries in the region. Judged by six Masters of Wine, headed by Caroline Gilby MW this year’s awards featured some notable winners including: Whites Stone Merlot 2019, Temet Winery, Serbia (best red wine); Vranec ‘Terroir’ Grand Reserva 2020, Chateau Kamnik, North Macedonia (best red wine from an autochthonous variety); Signum Chardonnay 2022, Frug Winery, Serbia (best white wine); Grašac Grand Fru 2020, Vinčić Winery, Serbia (best white wine from an autochthonous variety); and Moma Traminac 2023, Bikicki, Serbia (best orange wine).
Business to business
The trade dimensions of Wine Vision offered wineries the opportunity to showcase their products to a host of wine professionals. Serbia’s Chamber of Commerce estimates that Wine Vision was attended by over 400 international buyers, with over 1,500 business meetings scheduled; a number that does not include the thousands of spontaneous interactions at individual booths.
Jordan Trajkov, founder and chief executive of Popova Kula Winery from North Macedonia, commended the fair for hosting and not merely inviting wine buyers.
“The Wine Vision B2B meetings were very successful, especially for matching wineries with international buyers and importers,” said Dr. Slobodan Vujić, owner of the award-winning Fragaria Winery from Serbia, adding: “It was possible to taste Fragaria wines and to discuss further exports to some very interesting markets, which otherwise would be hard to reach, such as Netherlands, Angola, and others.”
“By giving both sides access to the ‘B2Match’ platform, they have enabled direct communication upfront and during the trade fair,” explained Trajkov.
It meant like-minded producers and potential buyers and suppliers could set up meetings based upon specific criteria. He also commended Wine Vision for actively hosting and not merely inviting wine buyers.
These successes are such that others from the world of wine, distillation, and gastronomy descended upon Belgrade to find new markets for their products. The presence of numerous buyers from Asia, for instance, is a compelling proposition that reinforces the sense that Wine Vision is a global hub that benefits not only those from the Western Balkans.
From business-to-consumer
Wine Vision was also focused on helping the domestic wine markets in Serbia, North Macedonia, and Albania. While wine consumption continues to decline in many more established markets, the Western Balkans boasts considerable growth potential; though competition from beer and brandy remains intense.
Change is afoot. Serbian wines now take centre stage on Belgrade restaurant wine lists. Wine fairs and tastings are an almost weekly occurrence, many designed to appeal to younger generations. Wine Vision was extensively promoted across the region in local media and online.
Conference of tastes
Wine Vision also showcased the region’s touristic and culinary offerings. An extensive food programme under the slogan ‘Confluence of Tastes’ celebrated emerging talents, many combining traditional ingredients with innovative approaches. Renowned Italian food critic, Luigi Cremona, offered his expertise and insight to restaurants eager to secure Serbia’s first Michelin Star.
A series of masterclasses and workshops, including Michelin-starred chef Alessandro Negrini and local talent Filip Ćirić from Homa restaurant, were supplemented by three-course menus from top restaurants from Serbia, Albania, and North Macedonia.
Distillers of rakija - the generic term for brandy made from all sorts of fruit, particularly plums, pears, and grapes - were also a key feature of Wine Vision, an acknowledgment of its emergence as a premium spirit. The leaps in the quality of the region’s wineries are being mirrored by its distillers, who are harnessing generations of tradition and craftsmanship.
The 2024 Rakija Trophy was distributed in various categories - plum, quince, grape, and other fruits - after assessing a record number of entries.
Looking ahead
The problems Wine Vision faces would make other wine fairs envious.
“Since there are more interested exhibitors than there are places, they are looking for a way to make a selection, but again to satisfy all interests,” said Igor Luković, editor-in-chief at Vino & Fino magazine and part of the Wine Vision organisational team.
With Serbia investing in new exhibition space ahead of its hosting of the specialised Expo2027, there will soon be scope for Wine Vision to go to another level. Until then, quality is the prime focus.
“We’re already working on lobbying famous names among wine experts to visit the fair next year,” said Luković.
Luković, who is also the co-author with Caroline Gilby MW of a forthcoming book about Serbian wines and wine regions (which will be published in English and Serbian), said its will be looking to extend its masterclasses and build on the success of the Open Balkan Wine Trophy competition. He is optimistic that “an even greater number of professionals will be guests at the fairs" and that the B2B meetings “will have an even greater effect on the local wine industry”.
Wine Vision’s future is promising. As Trajkov concluded: “If the organisers maintain the level of professionalism in all the key aspects, we expect that this trade fair will be even more established and maybe it will grow to become even more important.”
Ahead of Expo2027, Wine Vision will remain at the forefront of the Serbian government’s strategy to promote the development of wine, distillation, and gastronomy. Winemakers hope the fruits of these labours will transform their bottom line, whether through export, domestic demand, or ideally both.
* Ian Bancroft is a writer and former diplomat based in Belgrade, Serbia.
* To find out more Wine Vision by Open Balkan click here.