What do Saint-Joseph, Lirac, and Costières de Nîmes have in common? If you have studied the WSET Level 3, you’ll know that the first two are Rhône Valley crus. As for Costières de Nîmes, you might be scratching your head – does it belong to the Rhône, Languedoc, or even Provence? You won’t find out until Level 4!
In fact, the trio shares several key traits. They all lie on the right bank of the river Rhône, benefit from stony soils, and are influenced by the strong Mistral winds. Most importantly, they produce excellent wines that are often underrated but offer fantastic value.
So, you might be wondering why these wines have slipped under your radar. One key reason is that they have long been eclipsed by their more famous neighbours. However, all three are now stepping into the spotlight, embracing their unique identities with newfound pride.
Saint Joseph: bigger is not lesser
The southern end of Saint Joseph with limestone-rich soil
Saint Joseph is a Northern Rhône cru, the second largest after Crozes-Hermitage, and is a long, narrow AOC stretching 50 kilometres from north to south. With Côte-Rôtie and Condrieu to its north and Hermitage across the river to the east, it mainly produces red wines (86%) from Syrah and whites (14%) from Marsanne and Roussanne, grown on steep granite slopes. Only 13% of its wines are exported.
When compared alongside Crozes-Hermitage, these two AOCs are often viewed as sources of easy-drinking wines at the lower end of the price spectrum compared with the rest of the well-known Northern Rhône crus. Yet, Saint Joseph’s history and terroir offer a richer story. Initially a smaller area centred around Tournon, with roots extending back to Roman times, Saint Joseph was highly esteemed and even featured in Victor Hugo’s Les Misérables in 1862.
Established as an AOC in 1956, it initially encompassed only six communes around Tournon. Expansion followed in 1969, bringing in 20 additional communes and extending north to Condrieu. In 1991, a decision was made to raise quality by excluding flatter areas and those above 300 metres altitude, leading to a 30-year vine-pull initiative that gradually reduced the appellation by 100 hectares. Yet, despite its legacy, Saint Joseph remained overshadowed by Côte-Rôtie and Hermitage.
Cave de Tain's Saint Joseph lineup
Jérôme Coursodon of Domaine Coursodon believes several factors have held Saint Joseph back. “Like Côte-Rôtie and Hermitage, we also have steep slopes, which drive up production costs. However, we are not well-known, which has made it less competitive in the market. As such, producers have not always been keen to make more effort for little return,” says Coursodon. “So in my grandfather’s time, he had to grow other fruit trees to make a living, using the income from apricots to sustain vineyard costs,” he adds. As a result, many producers lacked the resources to promote their wines to a wider audience.
Despite these challenges, Saint Joseph’s reputation has started to shift. Nicolas Mielly, commercial director at Paul Jaboulet Aîné, recently noted that in a Wine-Searcher ranking, Saint Joseph’s Syrah, made by the renowned Gonon brothers, topped the list. “And there is no Hermitage in the Top 10,” Mielly was quick to point out.
North and South: to compare but not to compete
Marco Beckmann, winemaker of Maison Delas, another reliable name in Saint Joseph
For an extensive wine appellation like Saint Joseph, one might wonder if adopting a more Burgundian model – adding village names (lieu-dit) on the label to identify specific parts of the region – could be beneficial. However, both Jean Gonon of Domaine Pierre Gonon and Marco Beckmann, winemaker at Maison Delas, feel this would add unnecessary confusion, as many consumers already struggle to grasp what Saint Joseph represents.
Gonon further notes, “While the southern part of Saint Joseph is the appellation's birthplace, it’s time to appreciate the diversity across the whole area. Recognising and highlighting the range of terroirs across the long, narrow region offers greater value and complexity to the appellation’s identity.”
The Saint Joseph style
Thomas Farge of Domaine Farge in front of his steep vineyard at Saint-Jean-de-Muzols, southern Saint Joseph
After tasting several Saint Joseph reds, a common theme seems to emerge: they normally have moderate alcohol levels (between 13% and 13.5%), a silky tannin structure, vibrant red fruits, and notable ageing potential. Many producers find it challenging to define an unified "Saint Joseph style," but Jacques Devernois of Guigal offers insight. He thinks Saint Joseph reds tend to exhibit subtle, elegant violet aromas, which are less floral than Côte-Rôtie, with lower acidity and a more rustic tannin profile than Côte-Rôtie or Hermitage.
“Because we are on the right bank of the Rhône, receiving morning sun but less in the afternoon, the grapes are never burnt, which helps retain freshness,” explains Devernois.
Organic producer Thomas Farge of Domaine Farge believes that for a long appellation like Saint Joseph, there are stylistic differences from north to south. For him, the southern part offers a richer, traditional style, the middle part is more approachable even when young, whilst the north has more intensity of fruit.
The ageing potential of Saint Joseph wines is remarkable; Devernois recommends enjoying them after 4-5 years, highlighting vintages like 2018, 2019, and 2020 as especially drinkable now. For the whites, both Marsanne and Roussanne are permitted, though Marsanne is favoured by most producers. Its moderate acidity and phenolic bitterness are seen as hallmarks of northern Rhône Marsanne.
Jean Gonon of Domaine Gonon, a well-known Saint Joseph producer with a cult following
Jean Gonon points to Marsanne's structure and minerality, explaining that although it can sometimes be perceived as overripe or heavy, “Most of the time it’s not the fault of Marsanne but the winemaker,” he comments. “Marsanne’s rich profile supports ageing, maturing on glycerol in a way similar to sweet wines on sugar, gradually revealing greater complexity and freshness,” Gonon explains. His 2016 St Joseph Les Oliviers Blanc is honeyed, nutty, and has a rich peachy tone that tastes like a dream.
What does the future hold for Saint Joseph?
Joël Durand of Domaine Durand and co-president of the AOC Saint-Joseph
Producers generally agree that climate change has so far been positive for the appellation, helping to elevate the quality of Syrah. Regarding how to increase the visibility of Saint Joseph, Joël Durand of Domaine Durand, co-president of the AOC Saint Joseph, points out that this AOC, unlike Crozes-Hermitage, is not as easy to understand and that the wine often takes two or three years to reveal its finesse. Therefore, “the strategy is to bring more people, like press and trade, to the region. This is an AOC you need to see with your own eyes and taste to fully understand,” he concludes.
Lirac: baby Châteauneuf or the appellation of the future
On the second day of our trip, we arrived in Lirac, a Southern Rhône cru adjacent to Tavel and across the Rhône river from Châteauneuf-du-Pape, which primarily produces red wines (86%) from Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre, and Cinsault, with 12% white and 2% rosé. Notably, 46% of Lirac’s production is exported.
Like Saint Joseph, Lirac has its own eternal nemesis: Châteauneuf-du-Pape.
Lirac: embracing its own identity
Catherine Nilly, commercial director of Château d’Aqueria in Lirac, recently aquired by E.Guigal
Some producers have strong opinions about Lirac’s identity. “I can’t stand people comparing Lirac to Châteauneuf-du-Pape. They [Châteauneuf-du-Pape] are the ‘Papy’ (grandfather), old-fashioned, but we are modern and unique. I refuse to always be seen as ‘baby Châteauneuf-du-Pape,’” says Saskia Goetschy, a lawyer turned organic and natural winegrower at Château Boucarut.
For others, like Richard Maby of Domaine Maby, such comparisons don’t bother him, as “when comparing Lirac to Châteauneuf, the style is quite similar. But Lirac always has more finesse and elegance, and within four or five years, you get the full development of the wine, and it's always more approachable,” Maby remarks.
But the fact that 32 producers from Châteauneuf-du-Pape have crossed the Rhône River to acquire land in Lirac is solid proof of its immense potential.
“I'm from Châteauneuf, so I know it quite well,” says winemaker Pierre Fabre of Château Mont-Redon, who acquired the biodynamic estate Domaine du Joncier in Lirac in 2022. “For us who are used to the taste of Châteauneuf, we immediately fall in love with Lirac. There are similarities. Lirac perhaps has less longevity, but it can still age for around ten years, depending on the vintage. However, Lirac has its own identity, so we won’t say it is the poor man's Châteauneuf, as that's not true,” Fabre adds.
Lirac: AOC of the future
Co-president of the AOC Lirac, Grégory Sergent, in his old vine vineyard at Clos du Jas in Lirac
“I believe Lirac is the AOC of the future,” says Grégory Sergent of Clos du Jas, who is also the co-president of the AOC Lirac. “Over 56% of the producers are already organic, and this figure is increasing. There are 841 hectares of vineyards here, surrounded by 2,500 hectares of forest, which moderate and protect the region from the effects of global warming and provide freshness to the wine,” he adds.
Sergent is keen to point out that they are actively working on preserving biodiversity and are supported by “Pur,” the association specialising in decarbonisation. The plan is to plant 5,000 trees in three years.
Diversity is not limited to the environment, as Sergent proudly mentions, “Around 35% of our producers are female!” This highlights their dedication to fostering gender diversity and empowering women within the industry.
All Lirac needs is more marketing
The grass that seperates two AOCs in Château d’Aqueria. Lirac (r) and Tavel (l)
It seems Lirac ticks all the right boxes. But how can it emerge from the shadow of Châteauneuf-du-Pape?
“The winemakers are there, the terroir is there. It's just a question of awareness; consumers need to know more about Lirac. In my view, Lirac just needs more promotion,” says Fabre of Château Mont Redon. “It's still anonymous, but we have so much faith in Lirac that we've purchased more land in the past year, so I'm really convinced of the quality of the terroir overall,” he concludes.
Costières de Nîmes: the Rhône-sur-Mer
The famous galets roulés (round pebbles) at Château Mourgues du Grès in Costières de Nîmes
Our final stop takes us to Costières de Nîmes, a satellite appellation marking the southwestern frontier of the Rhône Valley. Known occasionally as "Rhône-sur-Mer," a moniker favoured by some winemakers we met, this region sits where the Rhône meets the Mediterranean – a vital point of distinction for Costières de Nîmes. Here, the sea breezes work their magic, cooling the vines and lending fresh acidity to the wines, despite the region’s generally warm climate.
Like Lirac, Costières de Nîmes shares the hallmark galets roulés (round pebbles) alongside the cooling Mistral winds and an assortment of classic Rhône grape varieties. The appellation produces a range of reds (47%), rosés (42%), and whites (11%), with around 30% destined for export.
Historically, wines from Costières de Nîmes have offered superb value, many hovering below the £10 mark. However, the region’s proximity to Languedoc and its relatively indistinct identity have often left it overshadowed.
That, however, is changing. With an eye towards strengthening its brand and shaking off past confusion, Costières de Nîmes has undertaken a complete image revamp.
A 360° image makeover
Cyril Marès, president of the Winegrowers’ Union of the Costières de Nîmes AOC
Costières de Nîmes has moved away from the historic crocodile-and-palm emblem, unveiling a sleek new logo inspired by the Mediterranean breeze and iconic Rhône Valley stones, blending modernity with regional heritage.
“We are keen to shine a light on what truly sets our terroir apart,” says Cyril Marès of Domaine Mas Carlot and Mas des Bressades, who also heads the Winegrowers’ Union for the Costières de Nîmes AOC. “In the past, we would often get caught up telling the tale of why the crocodile was chained to a palm tree – a charming story, no doubt, but rather a long one. By the time we’d wrap it up, there was little room left to discuss the wines themselves and the unique character of our terroir,” Marès explains.
Biodynamic, biodiverse and regenerative
Spanning an impressive 2,702 hectares, the Costières de Nîmes appellation benefits from an ideal climate, with 85% of its producers holding environmental certifications and 12% embracing biodynamic practices – among the highest rates in Rhône Valley AOCs. Bordering the Camargue to the south, one of Europe’s foremost bird sanctuaries, this AOC is naturally committed to biodiversity.
Leading this charge, Tanguy Castillon of Château l’Ermite d’Auzan is a dedicated biodynamic practitioner, crafting all treatments by hand. The Collard family at Château Mourgues du Grès, Demeter certified, showcases their biodiversity through a well-curated wine tourism programme. Meanwhile, Domaine Gassier proudly stands as the first French winery to achieve Regenerative Viticulture certification. These producers highlight Costières de Nîmes’ commitment to sustainability and forward-thinking land stewardship.
More work needs to be done in a price-sensitive market
Whilst Costières de Nîmes has so much to offer, the key challenge for producers is how to encourage consumers to trade up.
According to InterRhone’s statistics, the supermarket is still the key sales channel for Costières de Nîmes (31%), compared to Lirac (7%) and Saint Joseph (17%). Whilst these three AOCs provide great value for money, when looking at the average price per bottle sold in French supermarkets, Costières de Nîmes remains at the bottom of all the Rhône Valley AOCs (€3.36), compared to Lirac (€7.44) and Saint Joseph (€14.34).
The UK is the fourth export market for Costières de Nîmes and is an extremely price-sensitive one. Vianney Castan of Château Saint Louis la Perdrix shares a compelling example regarding their Crocodile Diamante, a Provençal-style rosé in a charming crocodile-skin pattern bottle.
“When we launched the rosé in Tesco in the UK two years ago at £9.99, it was a hit, and the wines were flying off the shelves. However, with the duty increase, Tesco had to adjust the price to £12, and all of a sudden, the wine stopped selling. To maintain the price (around £10), both our UK distributor and we had to take the hit and lower our margins further to remain competitive in the UK market,” explains Castan.
To maintain competitive pricing and boost sales, Costières de Nîmes should leverage its new brand image by emphasising its sustainability credentials and the quality of its wines. By showcasing its unique selling proposition of exceptional value for money, I believe the region can attract a broader consumer base.
Reflecting on my journey through these three Rhône AOCs, having met with over 20 producers and explored their vineyards, one thing stands out: each region boasts its own unique selling points and remarkable value for money. While it may sound like a cliché, the trio truly are hidden gems of the Right Bank Rhône, deserving of greater recognition. Several wines from these areas are well worth cellaring for up to 10 years, especially while prices remain affordable. They are all food-friendly, characterised by a freshness and restraint in alcohol that sets them apart. In essence, these wines represent the true underdogs of the Right Bank Rhône, waiting to be discovered.
Top 10 wines from Right Bank Rhône
Loic Ferraud, Domaine la Bergerade, who is making some stunning organic and low-intervention wines in Costières de Nîmes
It’s impossible to list all the hundreds of wines we tasted after meeting with 24 producers, but here are my super top 10 picks from the three right Right Bank Rhône appellations.
Saint-Joseph, L'Olivaie, Domaine Coursodon 2022
From an 80-year-old single vineyard, this wine is expressive, showcasing a savoury, stony note that beautifully complements its concentrated sweet fruit. The complexity and depth reflect the maturity of the vines, offering a balanced and harmonious profile.
Saint-Joseph, La Croix des Vignes, Domaine Paul Jaboulet Aîné 2021
The aroma is lively, with floral notes and silky, gentle tannins that enhance its elegance. The palate is beautifully layered with a medley of mixed berries.
Saint-Joseph, Passion de Terrasses, Domaine Farge, 2020
This wine is designed for ageing, sourced from 100-year-old vines in steep top-slope vineyards and made with 100% whole bunch Syrah. Initially a bit reductive, it reveals crunchy red fruit and elegant tannins, revealing a meaty complexity and well-structured profile.
Saint-Joseph, Domaine du Monteillet, ‘Cuvée du Papy’, 2004
When Stéphane Montez invited us to blind taste this wine, most of us guessed it was 5-10 years old. In reality, it’s a 20-year-old Saint-Joseph from vines aged 20 to 80 years, sourced from his best plot. Crafted in the Côte-Rôtie style, it has impressive structure and fruit concentration, demonstrating remarkable ageing potential.
Lirac, Chateau Boucarut, Augustin, 2019
This is a Grenache and Mourvèdre blend with soft tannins, a charming warm finish, and hints of balsamic. Made without added SO₂, it offers ripe dark fruit and subtle spice.
Lirac, Domaine du Joncier, 2022
A biodynamic GSM blend from Domaine du Joncier, newly acquired by Château Mont Redon. This expressive first vintage under new ownership offers vibrant fruit and solid structure, highlighting the vineyard’s terroir with finesse.
Lirac, Domaine des Carabiniers Blanc, 2022
Another wine from a biodynamic producer, with 50% Grenache Blanc, 25% Roussanne, and 25% Viognier. This wine has charming phenolic grip with excellent texture and structure, complemented by vibrant floral and stone fruit notes. Great value for money.
Costières de Nîmes, Lou Coucardie, Michel Gassier, 2013
Who said Costières de Nîmes can’t age? This 11-year-old GSM blend from Michel Gassier is a beautifully expressive wine with supple tannins, lively red berries, and hints of savoury herbs.
Costières de Nîmes, Qu'es Aquo, Château d'Or et de Gueules, 2020
The Demeter-certified château may have a challenging name to pronounce, but this female-led winery is making strides in innovative vineyard practices, including using musical therapy. The wine features old-vine Carignan, showcasing bright acidity and vibrant, ripe fruit intensity, complemented by fresh herbal notes that enhance its lively character.
Costières de Nîmes, Chateau L'Ermite d'Auzan Rosé, Sainte Cécile, 2023
Demeter-certified. This 100% Mourvèdre rosé has a deep salmon hue, reminiscent of a claret. Crafted using the saignée method, it undergoes fermentation in 400-litre barrels and is aged for three months with lees stirring. The result is an exuberant expression of red berries and a wonderful mouthfeel.
We can’t discuss Costières de Nîmes without mentioning the tiny 7-hectare AOC of Clairette de Bellegard, which is an enclave within the Costières de Nîmes AOC and exclusively produces still white wine from the Clairette grape. We had the opportunity to taste a wine made by Cyril Marès of Domaine Mas Carlot.
Clairette de Bellegard, La Terre Natale, Domaine Mas Carlot, 2021
This wine has exceptional texture and a subtle phenolic grip. Its charm is enhanced by ripe apricot notes and a touch of herbal complexity, all supported by a delicate mineral backbone.
