On a recent trip, I visited three of Hallgarten’s Veneto-based wineries, each unique in philosophy and approach. La Collina dei Ciliegi is the latest addition to Hallgarten's portfolio in the region.
La Collina dei Ciliegi
Nestled in the high-altitude hills of Valpantena, this winery embodies a blend of terroir, modernity, and the Italian art of slow living. The winery and its hotel, with expansive views over Veneto, provide a tranquil retreat amid the picturesque Italian landscape.
The story of La Collina dei Ciliegi is deeply entwined with deep connection to the land. It all began with Armando Gianolli, a man who, despite early hardships, found a nurturing environment in a small village called La Palenta. He grew into a successful businessman, passing on a love of the land to his son, Massimo, who spent his summers working in the fields.
Massimo studied agronomy in Padua, driven by a desire to create value from the land. His fortunes grew, and the family acquired property at the pinnacle of the Valpantena terroir, reaching up to 700 metres above sea level. This land of forests and cherry orchards is a cornerstone of the estate, which is evident in the imagery that graces its labels.
With Massimo’s entrepreneurial acumen and his dream for exceptional winemaking, La Collina dei Ciliegi was born. Today, it spans 31 hectares of vineyards (within a total of 55 hectares) situated between 450 and 700 metres above sea level and produces wines that reflect the essence of this untouched terroir.
Viticulture and vinification
Agronomists Claude and Lydia Bourguignon were brought in to conduct a detailed terroir analysis before launching the Alta project
Alessandro Marchesan, the estate’s marketing director, guided us through its ecological approach, which focuses on low yields and terroir-precision. "We aim for excellence through high-quality grapes and careful attention in the winery to preserve the essence of the fruit," he explained.
The estate’s Alta project represents a pioneering effort to explore and cultivate new, high-altitude terroirs in Valpantena. The goal is to harness the unique qualities of these elevated plots, where cooler temperatures, clay-rich soils, and abundant natural biodiversity contribute to distinctive characteristics in the grapes and, ultimately, the wines.
La Collina dei Ciliegi invested significant time and resources into understanding the land’s potential before launching the Alta project. Agronomists Claude and Lydia Bourguignon were brought in to conduct a detailed terroir analysis, which included digging pits and studying the soil composition across different parcels. This comprehensive examination took two years, ensuring that each plot’s specific attributes were carefully considered before vines were planted in 2018.
The Alta vineyards have a cooler climate resulting in wines that have firm acidity
In the Alta vineyards, yields are kept deliberately low to concentrate the flavours in the grapes and reflect the complexity of the terroir. The altitude provides a cooler microclimate, which helps preserve acidity in the grapes, resulting in wines that are fuller-bodied with a balanced, fresh acidity. These vineyards contribute to the production of La Collina dei Ciliegi's signature wines, with future plans for sustainable expansion as it continues to explore the potential of this unique, high-altitude terrain.
As Alessandro explained, the Alta project is about “letting the land guide us” and adapting the methods each year to bring out the best of the vineyard.
We visited the Monte Castello vineyard, cloaked in fog (and rain) that softened the view of this high-altitude landscape. Part of the Alta project, Monte Castello was planted in 2018, marking the estate’s venture into uncharted, elevated growing areas.
Situated above 550 metres and encircled by forests and wildlife, the vineyard benefits from a naturally biodiverse environment. Its clay-rich and calcareous soils lend the wines a distinctive minerality and structure, with ancient geological formations providing excellent drainage that enhances vine resilience and concentration. The cool microclimate, with its extended growing season, allows for gradual ripening, helping the grapes retain acidity and develop complex flavours.
The yields are kept at 4,000-5,000 kg/ha in the Alta vineyards and 7,000-8,000 kg/ha in Valpolicella. This year, due to heavy rain, these were reduced even further to maintain quality. "We’re constantly learning and adapting," Alessandro noted, emphasising their commitment to working in harmony with nature.
Winemaking approach: emphasising fruit over oak
More fruit less oak: winemaker Paolo Posenato
Winemaker Paolo Posenato employs a philosophy of minimal intervention, focusing on expressing the land’s character. “Our approach is simple: more fruit, less oak,” Paolo explained. Each vineyard block is managed individually, using a mix of ageing vessels, including concrete, amphora, stainless steel, and oak barrels, to bring out the unique qualities of each parcel... and all parcels are vinified separately. This approach results in wines that retain freshness with good balance.
La Collina dei Ciliegi truly expands the boundaries of the Valpolicella DOC into new terrain.
Tasting the wines of La Collina dei Ciliegi
Ca’del Moro Garganega Veronese 2023
Charms with its floral and fruity brightness, with notes of red apple and grapefruit. A saline finish complements its grainy, phenolic texture.
Prea 2021
Garganega 80%, Chardonnay 10%, Pinot Bianco 10%.
This wine’s pale gold hue hints at its vibrancy. The palate reveals delicacy, notes of chamomile, a cool-climate freshness, with flavours of salted almonds, earthy tones underneath, and a tangy lime finish. Saline and long, classy and complex. Alessandro noted, “It’s the first vintage of our Alta project, and we’re excited to see how it evolves.” 13%.
Peratara 2019 Valpolicella Superiore
Corvina 70%, Corvinone 25%, Rondinella 5%
A structured yet elegant expression of Valpolicella, oozing in aromas of cherry jam, ruccola, with pepper, cranberry, rocket, and faint smoky notes. Balanced power and a savoury finish, with supple tannins and a firm, mineral backbone. The blend of barrique, tonneaux and stainless steel fermentation contributes to its complexity. 13.5% abv.
Amarone della Valpolicella 2020
55% Corvina, 40% Corvinone, and 5% Rondinella
This Amarone is full-bodied and layered, featuring notes of rucola, liquorice, and Morello cherry. Spice and a touch of leather add depth, with enveloping tannins and a long, balanced finish. Although approachable now, this Amarone shows potential for aging, with a drinking window from 2025 to 2040 allowing for greater integration and complexity. 15% abv.
The wines of La Collina dei Ciliegi are imported and sold by Hallgarten & Novum which is a commercial partner of The Buyer. To discover more about them click here.
