“UK vineyards surpass 1,000 milestone mark and sales continue to buck the wider wine market trend,” trade body WineGB announced at A Toast to the Past, Present & Future of English Wine, 67 Pall Mall’s English Wine Week event.
WineGB revealed that there are now 1,030 vineyards in the UK, a 9.2% rise since the last annual report.* In addition, last year English and Welsh wine sales grew by 10% from 2022.
“In 2023, 87 new vineyards were registered bringing the total number to over 1,000 for the first time. Government data also shows that winery numbers have risen from 209 to 221 and that the total area under vine now stands at 4,209 hectares, representing a growth rate of 123% in 10 years.”
Official production figures confirmed what many had predicted, that 2023 had been a record year with the official figure standing at 161,960.84 hectolitres, the equivalent of 21.6 million bottles, which is a massive 77% increase on 2022. While last year’s volume growth was significant, the UK’s marginal climate will continue to deliver vintage variability with the production five-year average up from 10.7 million to 12.4 million bottles.
A Toast to the Past, Present & Future of English Wine
The figures were announced (under embargo) at the start of English Wine Week on June 17 at an unique tasting and lunch to celebrate English Wines held at 67 Pall Mall.
Winemaker Emma Rice, who has been at the forefront of the English winemaking industry for 30 years and was most recently the head winemaker at Hattingley, guided us through the day asking each winery principal or winemaker to introduce their wine in order to give an insight to this incredibly successful British industry.
It was a suitable day for back slapping and celebrating how far the industry has come given that the impressive growth figures fly in the face of global wine consumption which, of course, is on a downward trajectory.
Nyetimber’s Brad Greatrix remembers his first impressions of English sparkling which, to him, were like uncut diamonds at the time – plenty of beauty but a long way to go – although the magnum of 1996 Nyetimber that was served was truly majestic. He also quipped that most newbies to English sparkling are sceptics, but easily converted.
Charles Simpson from Simpsons Wine Estate urged caution, adding that there was a need for hierarchy and control; he noted that it was important to teach consumers to search for quality and not to be derailed by cheaper formats, whether it be Cremant or Prosecco styles, that were being confused with the traditional method of sparkling wines.
Simpson added that his wife, Ruth, and he were privileged to be in at the start of this extraordinary journey of English wine and have front seats for the birth of something rather special. Ruth Simpson said that although it was excellent to be involved in such a great success story there was still lots of work to be done now and in the future regards Diversity, Equality and Inclusion.
Personally speaking, it was fascinating to see how far English still wines have come and, in my mind, a huge opportunity is waiting in the wings, but again we need to concentrate and highlight quality and set standards so that the public can understand each level.
Kim Idzikowski, Danbury Ridge and Chris Wilson, Gutter&Stars
What wines were served and how were they tasting?
Here is the breakdown of all the wines that we tasted and how they were paired with great British food.
On arrival with canapés
2016 Squerryes, Vintage Brut (en magnum)
Henry Warde, the owner of the Kent estate, presented this beautiful wine that had won not only a Gold at The Champagne and Sparkling Wine World Championships in 2021 but also Best English Sparkling and National Champion.
2017 Rathfinny, Classic Cuvée (en magnum) was presented by Mark Driver, co-owner of this Sussex estate, and advocate of the ‘pint bottles’. This Pinot-led sparkling with 65% Pinot Noir and 17% Pinot Meunier has vibrancy with hints of ginger and clementine mixed with red apples and apricots.
Hambledon Vineyard, Premier Cuvée NV (en magnum) presented by winemaker Felix Gabillet, based in Hampshire, this has long been a favourite of mine. Bottled in 2016, this has it all – purity, depth and excitement – it had evolved beautifully but was still glowing on the palate with lime zest and fabulous paired with some Scottish girolle tartlets.
Celebrating The Present
Beetroot & avocado tartare, aged balsamic, green mustard sorbet
Charles Simpson watching his wine being poured
2018 Simpsons, Flint Fields Blanc de Noirs presented by Charles and Ruth Simpson. It was a joy and education to sit next to them to listen and to learn from their wine journey both in France and in Kent. This wine won the Best English Sparkling Wine Trophy and Gold Medal at the Champagne and Sparkling Wine World Championships in 2022. Definitely more Champagne in style – textured, red fruit and dark cherry, hints of stone fruit with delicate, toasted brioche notes. Sits seamlessly on the palate, enticing another sip to two.
2020 The Grange, White from Black presented by owner Zam Baring, this Hampshire sparkling was made by Emma Rice (she had a hand in quite a few of the day’s offerings), is 100% Pinot Meunier, gentle floral perfume, very light and delicate on the front palate with a clean citrus note, pastries and sweet spices. I wrote ‘beautiful’, which was quite apt as the summer sunshine lit up the Members Room at Pall Mall. This showcases how well Pinot Meunier can do in the UK.
Westwell Wine Estates, Pinot Meunier MV this was a new winery to me, and the wine was presented by Adrian Pike, managing director and winemaker of this Kent vineyard. 100% Petit Meunier, and a Multi Vintage, this was a gutsy wine with deep intensity, fermented tea, sweet plums and saline notes. Pike noted at one stage that this was more of a Pet Nat, but thankfully it has evolved and with age delivers well, sourced from 2019, 20 &21 vintages.
Honouring the Past – Intermediate
Hand-picked Devon crab, trumpet courgette, iced coral, calamansi
2015 Gusbourne Estate, Brut Reserve Late Disgorged although there was no-one from Gusbourne in attendance, this superstar estate in Kent is riding the waves. This is quite superb with a great balance of citrus and apple with brioche and biscuit. Then bright glowing notes of zesty lemon and white peaches. Love the intensity and balance, zing and zing in great harmony.
2010 Ridgeview, Blanc de Blancs (en magnum) represented by Simon Roberts, director of winemaking, this impressive wine from his Sussex estate had been on lees for over 12 years and delivers a sublime wine that is bright and fresh with perfect salinity; combine that with the nutty, brioche notes, toffee apple, and the deep golden colour and hints of perfume you have a pretty perfect sparkling.
Ferguson Elias, the winemaker at Balfour Winery in Kent presented two formats of its 2010 Brut Rosé, one from the original release stock and one which was disgorged earlier this year.
2010 Balfour Brut Rosé (late disgorged), rosebuds on the nose, dried red fruits, golden sultanas, ripe and forward on first taste. 2010 Balfour Brut Rosé (original release disgorged in 2015), for me this showcased better with nutty copper notes, evolved but some clean bright notes, balanced and focused.
Honouring the Past – Main Course
Roasted monkfish, Wye Valley asparagus, sorrel bouillon
2008 Camel Valley, ‘Cornwall’ Brut Sam Lindo had made the long journey upon from his Cornish family estate to present this Seyval Blanc-dominated sparkling. It is fragrant, creamy with plenty of depth, hint of copper notes, but plenty of fragrant notes too with a nod to sparkling, aged Riesling.
2016 Chapel Down, Kit’s Coty Coeur de Cuvée, Josh Donaghay-Spire, the head winemaker at Chapel Down’s Kent winery was there to guide us through this remarkable wine. I loved the purity, layers and layers of textures, lemon curd, custard tart, tangerine, tiny bubbles dancing on the palate, peeled white stone fruit, white nectarines and a golden hue, pretty perfect.
2009 Wiston Estate, Library Collection Cuvée, presented by Kirsty Goring co-owner of this Sussex estate. This was definitely more wine-focused as opposed to sparkling-focused; made by Dermot Sugrue it was their first ever commercial release. Ripe with fresh acidity, saline with creamy notes and still so fresh, lovely depth of flavour.
1996 Nyetimber, Blanc de Blancs (en magnum) presented by Brad Greatrix, senior winemaker at Nyetimber since 2007. This to me was wine of the day, it was magnificent, I luckily have some 1998 in my cellar, but sadly only in bottle format, this 1996 showcases why sparkling wine/Champagne should be stored in magnum. Savoury and toasty, smoky bacon crisps, ripe white nectarines, warm toasted brioche with butter, purity is immense, focused bubbles fresh but restrained, mesmerising, what a treat!
A Look to the Future- Cheeseboard
An English cheese board matched by five still wines, highlighted by two exceptional Chardonnays.
2021 Danbury Ridge, Chardonnay, this was similar to Margaret River Chardonnay to me, flinty, matchstick, white stone fruit, restrained elegance, hint of toasted brioche, saline and fresh, a real star.
2022 Gutter & Stars, Star 69// Chardonnay, showcased by my good friend Chris Wilson, think Domaine Duracell in its youth! (in that this will run and run). Not quite 100% Chardonnay on taste with those funky hedgerow notes but the purity and precision of this wine is pure magic.
2022 Cobble Hill, Bacchus presented by the owner Robert Perowne, a classic farmer-to-winemaker. With its proximity to the Norfolk coastline (about three miles) the vineyards are pretty much frost-free. Lemon and lime notes, gooseberry and elderflower, with lovely crisp acidity.
2023 Oastbrook Estate Vineyard, Pinot Meunier presented by Nick Brewer, from this Sussex estate. Perfumed, violets, lots of floral notes with a buttery feel, funky, pure and fresh on the finish.
2022 Blackbook Winery, ‘Trouble Every Day’ Pinot Noir presented by the owner Sergio Verrillo. Juicy and fresh bright red fruits, very much a Beaujolais style for me.
A Look to the Future– Dessert
Lemon and ginger mousse
And finally, but not least, an outstanding 2018 Biddenden Vineyards, Ortega Late Harvest and, although it was served with a lemon and ginger mousse was far better with the English cheese selection, especially the Lanark Blue and Cave-aged Cheddar. This was both intense and pure, rich but clean, nectar, honey & butterscotch but with crisp apple freshness, razor sharp acidity, and pure silk at the end.
*According to new figures from the Food Standards Agency Wine Team.
