The Buyer | Why Alta Langa Metodo Classico is on a meteoric rise in Piedmont

The gastronomic capital of Piedmont, the small medieval town of Alba, is abuzz in November. Already with an enviable reputation for Europe’s best hazelnuts (think Nutella and Ferrero Rocher chocolates), it is truffle season in the region and the annual Alba truffle festival is in full swing.

Well-heeled gourmands jostle with more ordinary visitors to savour shavings of the famously pricey white and black tuber-shaped fungus. It’s a great chance for the local wine producers and high-end restaurants to show off their wares. Our party of journalists flown in from as far afield as the United States and Canada are treated to some of the finest.

The birth of Alta Langa Metodo Classico

Alta Langa, as an appellation, is a relatively new kid on the block. It was first made a DOC in 2002 and only earned DOCG status in 2011 (retrospectively granted back to 2008). But it actually has a long history.The region produced the first traditional method wines to be made in Italy during the mid-nineteenth century, stored in the ‘underground cathedrals’ now recognised by UNESCO as World Heritage sites.

Alta Langa Metodo Classico is produced in three main areas: Alessandria, Cuneo and Asti.These sit between the Alps and the Mediterranean and have soils and climate at higher attitudes which are excellent for growing Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.

There are strict designation rules. All DOCG wines must be vintage and made from Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Vineyards must be on slopes above 250 metres (most are a good deal higher) and the wines must stay on the lees for more than 30 months. For the Riserva the rules are exceeded for the sake of depth and complexity.

Chatting to the local producers, it’s clear they are proudly part of creating an autonomous Alta Lange identity. But some comparisons are inevitable. Perhaps Franciacorta in Lombardy might be a good comparator, striving for top-end wines that can take on quality champagnes and with some quite ambitious prices. Certainly, Alta Langa’s from top wineries are routinely scoring 96 points or above – with prices to match.

Against this backdrop, it’s no surprise to learn that Alta Langa is witnessing impressive growth. In 2018 there were 20 producers with 250 ha, by 2023 this grew to 378 ha and now there are a total of 86 producers with 455 ha, producing nearly two million bottles a year for the first time. They have ambitious plans to produce nearly five million bottles by the end of the decade.

Blind tasting 74 Alta Langa Metodo Classico wines

Our trip starts with an overview of the region’s geomorphology (there’s marl ranging from sandy and silty and sometimes with strata of both). But uppermost in our minds is how the terroir expresses itself in the character of the wines. We have a blind tasting of 74 sparklers from 49 different producers to show the diversity and heritage of the wine production.

There are brut, extra brut, pas dosé (aka zero dosage), blanc de blancs, blancs de noirs and rosé, with vintages from 2018 to 2021 and Riserva with vintages from 2011 to 2018. Many are distinguished wines at the higher end and standouts with impressive structure, acidity and delightful aromatics, including Cocchi Bianc’ d Bianc Brut 2018 (RRP £29 a bottle). This has lots of lovely white fruits with a hint of apricot and a gentle effervescence.

Enrico Serafino Riserva White Pas Dosé 2011 (RRP £36) shows well, with orchard fruit characters and a bit of nuttiness. Vibrant and fresh.

Matteo Correggia Rosé Severina Extra Brut 2018 (RRP £30) is a very elegant wine with a beautiful pink hue. With a fragrant bouquet, there are hints of red fruits and white flowers and quite a persistent perlage.

Alta Langa strives to bring together the best of the new with the best of the old. Many producers have traditionally produced sparklers using Moscato grapes, but now they combine their heritage and knowledge using more recently planted Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Other producers make quality still reds and have widened their portfolio to include traditional method sparkling wines.

Visiting Bosca

I got to choose which winery I visited, so I opted for one of the oldest producers Bosca in Canelli which has been making fizz since 1831. The wine is stored on the lees in one of those stunning UNESCO-designated cellars. Bosca has a refreshing flair for modernity too and the tasting room décor reflects this. Hipsters as well as fizz traditionalists are embraced.

We met sixth-generation director Polina Bosca and Nicolo Omento, who is in charge of communications and marketing.

“It's all about quality and discovery. We don't need to compare ourselves to Champagne - we believe we are in a league of our own,” insists Omento. We are the first journalists to try Bosca’s Alta Langa 2022 vintage. It is crisp and light but well-rounded.

Tasting Alta Langa Metodo Classico at Guidoristorante

At sumptuous dinners at the historic Castle Roddi and the renowned Michelin starred Guidoristorante we have the freedom to sample many different vintages and producers to accompany dishes with the finest truffles. The quality of the Alta Langa sparklers shines through. The Guidoristorante is within the picturesque Fontanafredda Estate and a menu highlight is the ‘plin al tovagliolo’ (stuffed agnolotti pasta closed with a “pinch”).It’s a traditional dish served in a napkin to keep the pasta soft.

Here we taste a range of Alta Langa en magnum.Served as an aperitif is the beautiful belle epoque-labelled Casa E di Mirafiore Blanc de Noir Brut 2020 (£29 single bottle). The typical structure of Pinot Noir is immediately evident and there’s an appealing creaminess. I would also pick out the Luigi Coppo Brut 2020 (£59) and one of oldest and the priciest of the offerings, the Gancia Riserva Cuvee 120m Brut 2006 (£131)) which has a high degree of complexity and length on the palate.Finally, there is the special Tosti1820 Bicentenario Pas Dosé 2010, a zippy and mineral wine with a lovely mousse.

One aim of our trip is to illustrate how well Alta Langa pairs not just with European-style fine dining but also with Asian food. We conclude with a cookery demonstration from a top chef Ziling Zhou from one of the foremost restaurants Silver Pot in China’s Sichuan province. The paired Alta Langa is the deliciously light Banfi Blanc de Noirs Pas Dosé 2017 (€40). Even to the truffle-curious novice it would seem truffles and Alta Langa go every bit as well with umami-laden Asian cuisine as with risotto and more traditional Italian dishes.

We come away with a sense that there are many faces to Alta Langa. It’s a youthful designation where perhaps the full personality is still being formed. But what unites all the producers is their drive for top quality and their ambition to make sparklers that shine brightly on the global stage. We discover that Alta Langa is growing in popularity and is rightly on the rise to achieve the world recognition it deserves.

Alta Langa wines for the on-trade are available via range of distributors including: Vinissimus, Xtrawine, London Wine Competition, Flint Wines

For more information about Alta Langa: www.altalangadocg.com