Austria boasts a wine culture as vast and varied as its breathtaking landscape of mountains, valleys and rivers.
Austrian Wine’s tagline is The Art of Wine: Down to Earth, and it couldn’t be more apt.
The country's wine industry has a strong commitment to organic viticulture, a diverse range of indigenous grape varieties, and a growing, solid, reputation for quality.
It’s in this context that Austrian Wine held masterclasses in Manchester and Edinburgh, led by Master of Wine Anne Krebiehl.
"There is no Treasury Wine Estates, and no equivalent of Gallo in Austria." : Anne Krebiehl MW
Here’s a “wow” fact - that 24% of Austria's vineyards are certified organic.
Says Anne: “If you look at other countries, organic certification usually ranges somewhere between five and 15%. So, 24% is outstanding - and 3% of viticulture is biodynamic.
“The history of Austria is such that you have farming folk. Most of the winemakers we speak to today are families that have been there for generations. Today you have lots of tiny wineries, and the people know their land and have known it for generations. They're small estates, and they care a lot.
“There isn’t a CEO sitting at a desk with no dirt under his fingernails.
“These are the people.
“If they spray their vineyard, they're the ones dealing with the aftermath. And I think that makes a huge difference in how you work the land.”
Despite a sudden upward trajectory of exports in recent years, market penetration could be limited by the same fact. Most of the wine estates are family run; there is no big corporation driving sales.
Anne explains: “There is no Treasury Wine Estates, and no equivalent of Gallo, who could actually make a scalable amount of wine that is then in every supermarket.
“The structure of the Austrian wine industry means that there are no vast producers who could push for Austrian wines to be very well represented in every corner shop and supermarket in the UK.”
"Opportunities when people want to spend a little more on a bottle of wine." Anika Satzinger.
Figures just released show that the UK market has a share of between 1-2% of Austrian wine exports. Is there an opportunity to push that higher?
Anika Satzinger, the Austrian Wine team leader for the UK, was at the event in Manchester. She told me: “The UK is a very important market for us. Austrian wine can still be seen as a niche offering, but we believe that as lifestyles change, and people want to spend a little more on a good bottle of wine, then there are opportunities for us.
“We have so many grape varieties, and we hope that by experimentation within restaurants, and people buying our wines and styles by the glass, then that will help drive a way forward for us.”
It is a sentiment Anne amplifies. What do Austrian wines bring that makes them stand out?
“I think they bring a completely hand-crafted, artisanal and authentic slice of a really old but completely contemporary wine culture.
“Austria may not be at the very cheapest price point, but it is at a price point that is aspirational and not too expensive. Austria is a very good source of incredibly well made beautifully expressive, pure and full-fruited wines.”
I don’t want to dwell on the 80s wine scandal, as the wines we enjoyed in Manchester don't deserve to be tainted by the past.
If that scandal still influences your wine buying, then give yourself a tap with a pointy stick.
And yet it was a driver to what happened next. A graph of export figures on Austrian Wine’s website clearly shows that scandal-linked slump in the mid-80s; and then from the 2000s onwards, a steadily-building resurgence.
In the scandal’s aftermath the Austrian Wine Marketing Board was founded; likewise, then in 1991 the Austrian Wine Academy; and, once in the EU, Austria had a determined focus on developing DO wines. The first in its own DAC system was Weinviertel DAC, in 2003.
We journeyed some of the DAC system, via four flights of wines. Anne led the way with, as ever, ladles of insight and enthusiasm.
On Grüner Veltliner:
“If we had 50 other Grüners to taste today, there would be 50 more faces of it. Grüner can teach us a lesson. I must be the first person to be a Riesling snob but I’ve learned to eat humble pie when it comes to Grüner Veltliner. And if you're a sommelier, Grüner will go with everything.”
On Austrian Riesling:
“With just over 2,000 hectares, why are Austrian wines so important in the Riesling world? It survives where others struggle. There is very little Riesling but it is in exactly the places which are absolutely suited to it. That explains why Austria has mostly spectacular Riesling.”
On Zweigelt:
“Zweigelt is the most widely planted red. It’s mostly made into very easy drinking wines; and there’s nothing wrong with easy drinking. It’s a superb success for a new grape variety. If you allow it to age, it can be very Pinot-esque. If you treat Cinderella with respect, she gets to go to the ball.”
On Blaufränkisch:
“Blaufränkisch is the noble red grape of central Europe and it is an incredible grape. Old Blaufränkisch is very beautiful. If cultural history had been different, if there hadn't been an Iron Curtain, if this place hadn’t been so devastated by wars and conflict, Blaufränkisch would have been far more widespread. There are places in the New World where it could be exceptional.”
Flight One: Grüner Veltliner
Grüner Veltliner Röschitz 2023, Weinviertel DAC: Gruber Röschitz
This fresh and fruity wine has brightly cut pear, savouriness, and that peppery note from the telltale compound rotundo. The producers driving the wine style are three siblings, who, says Anne, “target the international market, they are successful, and I love what they do.”
Krems Alte Reben Grüner Veltliner 2022, Kremstal DAC: Weingut Wess
Alte Reben means old vines and these are 70-100 years old. The wine is made by Christina Juen-Wess, who “lives and breathes wine”. This will be a beauty in 10 years’ time, says Anne. “If I wanted to open an encyclopaedia and look up Grüner, this is the wine that would appear.”
Grüner Veltliner Ried Loibener Steinertal 2021, Wachau DAC Smaragd: Weingut Alzinger
Producers Leo Alzinger and Katharina Alzinger-Kittel are following in the footsteps of Leo Alzinger senior. Anne’s view: “So, Grüner and Riesling, you might think you can’t mix them up when you taste? As a young wine you can’t, but it is something that the Wachau does time and again. Taste this wine in 20 years you won’t be able to tell whether it’s a Riesling or a Grüner.”
Flight Two: White diversity
Riesling Ried Achleiten 2021, Wachau DAC Smaragd: Domäne Wachau
The best way of appreciating the drama of this famous vineyard Achleiten is from a boat on the Danube. The Domäne Wachau cooperative has a reputation akin to some of the best in the world. The Riesling is linear, super sprightly, clean cut, and has shouts of apricot and lemon. Says Anne: “It is just so gorgeous. It is world class.”
Sauvignon Blanc Ried Moarfeitl GSTK 2017, Vulkanland Steiermark DAC: Neumeister
Steiermark {Styria} has high altitude vineyards and white aromatics can thrive. Sauvignon Blanc arrived more than 100 years ago. Anne says: “You could happily put a Styrian Sauvignon Blanc in a lineup alongside the world’s best Sauvignon Blancs. This is beautifully made and at seven years old it doesn’t have a wrinkle. It could just go on and on.”
Bisamberg 2023, Wiener Gemischter Satz DAC: Christ
The Gemischter Satz DAC applies to multi-grape blends. This is a field blend of around 100 varieties led by Grüner and Weißburgunder. Says Anne: “Austria has brought these blends back into consciousness. They can future-proof against climate change and hot summers. It brings a resilience and beautiful diversity.”
Flight Three: Sparkling Surprise and fresh red wines
Pitt Nat Trocken Blanc 2022: Pittnauer
This pet nat fizz - a blend including Grüner Veltliner, Riesling, Müller-Thurgau, Welschriesling, Sauvignon Blanc and Grauburgunder - was a palate cleanser before the reds beckoned. And it did the job. Anne says: “This is like elderflower fizz. It is a very honest rendition of 50-year-old vines.”
Pinot Noir Tattendorf 2022, Thermenregion DAC: Johanneshof Reinisch
The Thermenregion is one of the sunniest and driest regions in Austria. The producers are the fourth generation to grow wine in Tattendorf. Anne says: “It is so hard to get a juicy, fruity Pinot that actually tastes like Pinot. This is fresh, affordable, artisanally made. It’s a beautiful and honest Pinot Noir.” There are only 600 hectares of Pinot Noir in Austria.
Rubin Carnuntum Zweigelt, Carnuntum DAC: Artner
In the 90s, Carnuntum producers recognised the point of difference in soils, such as loess, sand and silt (all of which Zweigelt loves). They collaborated on research and today between 37 and 40 wineries make Rubin Carnuntum. It has to be 100% Zweigelt, a minimum of 12.5 abv, and aged in wood. Today the use of new oak has been dialled back. It has sour cherry notes and spikey pepper.
Flight 4: Blaufränkisch and Liquid Gold
Blaufränkisch Kalk und Schiefer 2013, Burgenland: Anita and Hans Nittnaus
Organic pioneer Hans Nittnaus had left home to be a musician. When the wine scandal hit he returned, says Anne, “with heartfelt ideas to make wine with as much passion as he made music. Here Blaufränkisch is very approachable. There’s quite a mouthful of wine but no heft, and I like that.” The vines grow on limestone and slate (ie- kalk und schiefer).
Blaufränkisch Lutzmannsburg Alte Reben 2021, Burgenland: Weingut Moric
Roland Velich is the man behind this world-class wine. He is, says Anne, somebody who is “very passionate about Blaufränkisch and he wanted to make a wine of place.” In Lutzmannsburg he found old blaufränkisch vines of between 80-100 years. The wine has an amazing perfume of violets and brambles; pure, elegant, structured.
Furmint Auslese 2023, Burgenland: Heidi Schröck & Sons.
Lake Neusiedl creates the perfect conditions for botrytis. Heidi Schröck and her two sons make this pure Furmint. “Drink our spirit of life” says the producer website. Furmint brings acidity and, as Anne reminds us, “if you want to make fabulous sweet wines you need to have a grape variety that has killer acid.” You can taste botrytis: Honey, baked apples, marmalade, and apricots.
We packed in a lot of information in an hour or so. If you head to Austria Wine's website www.austrianwine.com you can pack in a lot there too. It’s an amazing resource.
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