According to Vincent Wallays, Domaine Chanson’s export director, 2024 was “not a cold, but more of a wet year. Winter was fairly mild, followed by an early and warm spring.” There were a few frost episodes in both the Côte Chalonnaise and the Côte de Beaune, but it was the hail, particularly in the Côte Chalonnaise, that had the most severe impact on the vintage.
Domaine Chanson ultimately lost 60 percent of its 2024 yield, along with 30 percent of the buds intended for the 2025 harvest. Despite this, the Côte Chalonnaise managed to recover more effectively than expected and even delivered better yields than both the Côte de Beaune and the Côte de Nuits. “2026 should be great,” Wallays adds.
2024 marks a special milestone for the Côte de Beaune sites, as it is the first vintage as them organic-certified.
“The economy looks different now”
Wallays notes that “2021 was also a vintage when Domaine Chanson lost 60 percent of its yield.” He prefers not to revisit the complications of 2021 and points out that 2024 once again combines low yields with high production costs. “2023 was generous, and we are trying to compensate,” he says.
The year 2025 has introduced economic conditions that few could have foreseen. In addition to significantly reduced buying power, the market is adjusting to shifting consumption patterns, many influenced by a growing focus on weight loss and wellbeing. “It is a very different market right now from what it was in 2022 and 2023,” Wallays observes.
Even so, Domaine Chanson continues to position itself as a challenger winery, committed to growing its international presence. Wallays believes that “in a world where you want to expand, you need to improve and deliver quality in order to earn market share.” In light of both the 2024 vintage conditions and the current economic environment, forecasting with confidence is difficult, and relying on predictions is not the wisest approach one could take.
“In a world where you want to expand, you need to improve and deliver quality in order to earn market share.” Vincent Wallays:
Côte de Beaune is certified organic
2024 marks a special milestone for the Côte de Beaune sites, as it is the first vintage as them organic-certified. Domaine Chanson is also an HVE 3 certified producer, underscoring its long-standing commitment to sustainability and its impact on terroir. HVE 3 represents the highest level of France’s voluntary environmental certification, recognising farms and vineyards for exemplary ecological practices.
Domaine Chanson has managed its vineyards in an almost entirely organic manner for the past 20 to 25 years, and the formal certification process began in late 2020. The goal is for the Côte Chalonnaise holdings to achieve organic certification by 2027. Wallays notes that the transition itself has not been overly challenging. “It has taken some time to update all the machinery, but otherwise we were already farming organically.”
One of the achievements Wallays is most proud of is the “Great Place to Work” award, which Chanson earned as the only winery in France to do so. “Happiness at Chanson is very important.” The team is dedicated to creating a workplace culture that empowers employees and encourages mutual support. This philosophy led to the creation of Café Joyeuse, an initiative developed by employees for employees, offering a space to discuss matters of work and life, and to ensure that colleagues of all abilities feel heard, included and connected.
Sustainable actions in the vineyard
Beyond the human side of the estate, the winery takes great pride in the beehives at Clos de Mouches, which help enrich the vineyard’s biodiversity. This initiative inspired them to introduce flowering herb cover crops that naturally attract bees, even if these plants compete with the vines in the early stages. Water used for washing the tractors is fully recycled, and vine cuttings are repurposed in various ways rather than being burned.
Although sustainability requires significant investment, and Wallays acknowledges that the return will be a long-term one, he believes it is essential. Domaine Chanson does not wish to be the sole driver of change; they are keen for more wineries to join the effort. They recently hosted a meeting with producers across the Côte de Beaune to discuss organic practices, and they believe that the entire Côte de Beaune is now farming organically. There is more to come on this front, so watch this space.
How did all these events transform into the 2024 en primeur samples?
Newest additions to whites: Rully and Les Bressandes, turned out to be “chou-chous” of themajority. On reds, Mercurey was stealing hearts and palates of the tasters. And what else was showing beautifully? The notes that follow will tell the story.
2024 Chanson whites
Rully
Lemon-led and refreshing with good acidity and texture. Clean and focused.
Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru Les Hauts Marconnets
Rounded apple and floral nose. Big and brisk with zippy acidity and a smoky edge.
Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Cru En Caradeux
Lemon, apple, delicate florals, textured. Nicknamed “Petit Charlemagne” due to its prime location. Yum!
Beaune 1er Cru Les Bressandes (new)
Lemon and florals on a bright, refreshing nose. Very high acidity. Previously blended; now bottled separately in special limited 1,800 bottles in 2024.
Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Chenevottes
Cool climate site with windy nights. Green apple and floral notes, nice balance of freshness and roundness.
Beaune 1er Cru Le Clos des Mouches
Lovely acidity and shape on the palate. Slightly like GG Rieslings out of the barrel, flat for now but should evolve beautifully.
Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Folatières
Intensely floral, sharp lemon, sour apple and a touch of vanilla from oak. Pure Puligny charm.
Corton Vergennes Grand Cru
Ripe lemon, apple, and floral notes. Exceptionally long finish. Likely my favourite, but it's hard to resist a Grand Cru.
2024 Chanson reds
Rully
Flat nose but the palate is excellent. Great fruit, oak, and acidity.
Mercurey
Slightly muted aromatically, but vibrant and balanced on the palate.
Mercurey 1er Cru Le Clos Lévêque
Light cherry and floral notes. Soft tannins and a lively finish.
Monthélie 1er Cru Le Clos Gauthey
Sour cherry nose, silky and delicious. A personal favourite.
Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Cru Vergelesses
Earthy and savoury. Serious and satisfying.
Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru La Dominode
Cherry and cinnamon, lifted by good acidity and fine tannins. Light and charming.
Beaune 1er Cru Clos du Roi
Cherry with earthy undertones. Very elegant. Changing with extra layered finish. Another favourite.
Beaune 1er Cru Les Teurons
Cherry-driven with a deeper, more structured finish. Great ageing potential.
Beaune 1er Cru Clos des Marconnets
Earthy cherry notes, firmer tannins. Classic style with balanced acidity.
Beaune 1er Cru Champs Pimont
Fruity, approachable, and showing beautifully now.
Beaune 1er Cru Les Grèves
Cherry fruit, good structure, balanced acidity. A favourite site of mine, so I am biased
Beaune 1er Cru Clos des Fèves (Monopole)
Cherry and firmer tannins. Not silky yet, but promising evolution.
Beaune 1er Cru Le Clos des Mouches
Cherry with a herbal lift. Gorgeous wine with a long finish. One of the standouts.
Vintages drinking now
Vintages that are drinking well - old label design (left)
Whites
2022 Rully
So beautifully rounded and gorgeous wine. Refreshing, nice wine.
2023 Mercurey
Absolutely fantastic. Quince, apple, lemon, and floral lift. My current top white.
2022 Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru Les Hauts Marconnets
Smoky and sharply acidic
2021 Beaune 1er Cru Le Clos des Mouches
Lemon, apple, texture and length. Lovely.
Reds
2023 Bourgogne
Classic, clean, and charming.
2022 Mercurey
Outstanding. Cherry, spice, and earth notes, full of life and character.
2018 Beaune 1er Cru Les Teurons
Aromatic and layered: cherry, forest floor, flinty minerality. A textbook Beaune.
2020 Beaune 1er Cru Clos des Fèves (Monopole)
Yes! Rich, developed, and packed with fruit. Will gain complexity with age, but already a standout. Superb!
The wines of Domaine Chanson are imported and sold in the UK through Metzendorff which is a commercial partner of The Buyer. To discover more about them click here.
