The year 1864… Abraham Lincoln was re-elected as President of the United States, the first Geneva Convention took place and the iconic house of Champagne Alfred Gratien began making its very first cuvées.
It’s been 160 years since Alfred Gratien set up his business on Rue Maurice Cervaux close to Epernay. Today his wines remain very much in house, a family affair.
Managing director of Gratien, Olivier Dupré commented self-deprecatingly over a sumptuous celebratory lunch at Paris’ world famous Hotel Le Bristol.
“It's not a special anniversary, 160 is not a magic number. But it’s a good occasion to show the expertise of Alfred Gratien, through the cuvées that we have presented.”
False modesty perhaps, this is by anyone’s standards a special birthday for an historic champagne house. One celebrated not only with UK press (the most important market for Gratien outside of France) but for French journalists too. Sitting with sartorial elegance our French friends looked on from nearby tables, at us the slightly tardy, ‘le rosbif’.
There was no grenouille on the menu but rather a comparative tasting of The Cuvée Paradis Blanc 2016 and Rosé 2008 and two vintage expressions of the 2008 in bottle and in jeroboam. These wines paired beautifully with the elegant cuisine. All expressions were chosen to showcase a prestigious year with examples that aimed to demonstrate suitability for further ageing. More on these tasting notes later.
Alfred Gratien chef de cave Nicolas Jaeger
Our lunch host and chef de cave Nicolas Jaeger was also celebrating his own birthday, not just that of Gratien. Like his ancestors, he learnt his craft from his father, serving a 17-year apprenticeship before taking over the reins. It was clear that family history, pride and attention to detail means as much today as it did some 160 years ago.
What sets Alfred Gratien apart is its continued use of traditional methods in an era of increasing mechanisation and mass production (only 300,000 bottles are produced a year); the house is one of the few that ferments its base wines in small oak barrels. When learning his trade Jaeger was said to be fascinated by the wooden barrels. Working with wood requires patience and is a key part of Gratien’s winemaking philosophy since the beginning.
“We want the oak to give micro-oxidation. We want wood because the wine becomes more round and long (on the palate). I think the wood gives more emotion in the wine, and this is the magic when you work in wood.”
The use of some 1000 barrels in its cellars has set them apart from many other Champagne producers. and forms the blueprint of the wines of Alfred Gratien.
Alfred Gratien has over 1000 barrels in its cellars in Epernay
The house has 1.56 hectares of Grand Cru and Premier Cru vines at the heart of the Côte de Blancs. Gratien sources the rest of its grapes for production from 60 growers with whom close historic ties have been built over many years.
Another special part of Gratien’s approach is the use of three grapes, holding as they do great store for the often unfairly judged, Pinot Meunier, the so called ‘insurance’ grape.
“We don't forget the Pinot Meunier. Some brands speak about noble grapes being just Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. But here we use the three grapes. And if you respect the three grapes, you can feel something very, very interesting.”
Gratien is a champagne house that always stood by its philosophy: "Le vin est l’expression du vigneron" ("Wine is the expression of the winemaker"). From the very beginning, Gratien set out to produce champagnes that would stand apart, focusing on artisanal methods and meticulous attention to detail. This philosophy seems as true today as it did 160 years ago.
How were the champagnes tasting?
A tasting of three cuvées celebrating the history and philosophy of Alfred Gratien in Paris’ Hotel Le Bristol
2016 Cuvée Paradis, Brut Blanc
60% Chardonnay, 40% Pinot Noir
Beautifully golden in the glass with a rich buttery nose of cooked apples and almonds. The palate is as delicious as the nose with more delightful pastry notes, croissant and brioche. A long and creamy finish is marked with a chalky salinity and delicate bubbles which caress the palate.
2008 Cuvée Paradis, Brut Rosé
63% Chardonnay, 37% Pinot Noir
Deep apricot in colour with a highly expressive nose of ripe orchard fruits like golden apple, pear, and peach. With time in glass more aromas emerge, including citrus zest, candied lemon, and a hint of white flowers. Subtle notes of brioche, toasted almonds, and a delicate mineral character add depth and complexity on the palate. The long finish was extended by gentle salinity and white pepper notes. A wine for enjoyment now or for further ageing.
Alfred Gratien Millesime 2008 Cuvée 160 years (750ml bottle)
Chardonnay 56%, Pinot Meunier 23%, Pinot Noir 21%
Almonds and apple intertwine on the palate but with plum and quince clearly expressed on both the nose and the mouth. Oyster shells and brioche toasted over an open fire blend beautifully and curiously on the finish. A superbly well-made wine from a classic vintage. This example shines as brightly as the candles on Alfred Gratien’s 160th birthday cake.
Alfred Gratien Millesime 2008 Cuvée 160 years (Jeroboam)
Brut 2008 Limited Edition 160 years Jeroboam
Chardonnay 56% Pinot Meunier 23% Pinot Noir 21%
Aged under cork this wine expresses everything and more than its standard-sized cousin. A citrus and quince nose gives way to a salinity and youthfulness that belies its years. An intense freshness remains on the palate that would suggest this wine has considerably more to go in its evolution.
Alfred Gratien has been partnered with The Wine Society since 1906 both having celebrated significant anniversaries in 2024.
Alfred Gratien is distributed in the UK through Jascots Wine Merchants.
