Twenty one years seems like a lifetime ago; Tony Blair was in 10 Downing Street, Peter Andre, Busted and Britney Spears ruled the charts and Arsenal were the Premier League champions (lifting the trophy at Highbury!).
2004 was also the year that historic sherry producer González Byass opened its UK office in St Albans. The branch was established initially to represent the family business’ own brand sherries and brandies in the UK but quickly expanded as the González Byass portfolio of single estate Spanish wineries grew.
In 2009 the UK operation started bringing in its own third party agencies, initially with Jackson Estate and Quinta do Noval, and today González Byass UK represents more than 20 producers from 10 countries.
To celebrate its 21st birthday, the annual González Byass UK portfolio tasting took place on February 6, the same day that - 21 years ago - the company moved into its offices back in 2004. As well as a splendid birthday cake, the real gifts on show were the hand-selected older vintage wines which each producer brought along to show alongside their current releases. The cherry on top of the cake was the launch of two new agencies; Famiglia Castellani and Jean Bouchard.
Pollard and Parr on life at González Byass
On the day of the tasting, held at London’s Institute of Engineering & Technology on the north bank of the River Thames, I caught up with Sarah Pollard, head of marketing and González Byass brands and sales director Suzie Parr.
“I joined the company in 2008 and they sold it to me on the fact that they wanted to turn it from a sherry company into a wine company,” remembers Parr of her early days at the company. “With my wine experience it sounded really appealing and I’d only been here for a few months before they brought Jackson Estate in as the first agency brand. That was the start of things really.”
Sarah Pollard, who joined a little earlier than Parr and has been at González Byass for 19 years believes that one of the best things about González Byass UK is the relationships it has with customers, many of which have been with the business for a very long time. “It’s the idea that we’re all an extended family, which sounds really cheesy,” she says, “but it’s true. We all get on and we all work together really well.”
“A lot of things have changed, but the culture of the company hasn’t changed,” adds Pollard. “We still want to focus on really great quality premium wines and we want to have a friendly, welcoming and warm culture in the company.”
"It’s an honour and a big pleasure to work with González Byass" - Giacomo Castellani
With the myriad challenges facing the industry at the moment - not least the recent duty hikes - it’s good to have solid relationships with your partners. “This enables us to negotiate the highs and the lows of the market,” says Parr. “Having that friendly, encouraging and nurturing relationship really helps you retain your position and retain the enthusiasm for the company.”
Given the heavy weighting of the portfolio towards fortified wine, with Croft and Tio Pepe sherries making up a significant proportion of sales, the company found itself quite exposed when last year’s duty changes targeted wine with higher alcohol levels. “We found that when that huge duty change happened with fortified wine we saw a huge dip in sales of Croft by 25-30% straight away,” says Parr. “But all those sales have come back. There was a lot of worry that they wouldn't come back but they have and I think it’s found a level again. People want to buy Croft and therefore have to spend the money.”
There’s a feeling that the premium side of the market is performing better at the moment than the lower end which helps González Byass as that is the natural place for many of its producers and wines.
Famiglia Castellani is made up of six estates - so has helped fill a gap in the Italian side of the portfolio
New kids on the block
With this in mind the two new producers to the portfolio represent premium offerings from Tuscany and Burgundy respectively. Famiglia Castellani was a nice winery to pocket for the company as there was no representation of Italy in the portfolio.
“Italy was a massive area for us to fill,” says Parr. “Castellani is a good fit for us; really great quality wines, six different single estates and they have got massive production capabilities as well. They are quite similar to González Byass in that they are family owned and about the same age as us and it’s a really lean, tight operation, with loads of attention to detail and they keep everything in-house. A nice complement to our portfolio.”
Fifth generation winemaker Giacomo Castellani is thrilled to be on board. “I would hear my father say I want to go back to work in the UK as it’s one of the best markets in Europe for quality wines, so it’s an honour and a big pleasure to work with González Byass. It’s very nice to represent Italy and, of course, Tuscany.”
Jean Bouchard: "We know it takes time to build the market.”
Looking at the new French addition to the stable, Jean Bouchard offers a raft of quality wines from some of Burgundy’s most interesting appellations. “It is extremely exciting to be working with González Byass,” says Jean Bouchard’s export manager Delphine de la Fouchardière. “There is a family approach as a background which helps as we speak the same language and we are both long-term orientated. We know it takes time to build the market.”
Looking ahead
And time is something they have. Gazing into the crystal ball and looking ahead to the next 21 years, what do Pollard and Parr see for González Byass UK? “Hopefully we will go from strength to strength with more agency brands, more fame with our Spanish wines, and continuing the sherry love story,” says Parr.
“In 21 years I’ll be retired and feet up, drinking wine,” adds Pollard, not unreasonably.
From sparkling to sherry, some of the stand-out wines from the González Byass UK tasting
Txomin Etxaniz, Blanco 2023, D.O. Getariako Txakolina
We don’t see much Txakoli in the UK and it always thrills. This style is more creamy and rich than the racy, green apple-led versions, and more complex too. Perfect with the leg of jamon being sliced very delicately just across the room.
Vilarnau, Brut Reserva Rosé Organic NV, DO Cava
Comprised of 85% Grenache and 15% Pinot Blanc, this fresh yet complex rosé is a delight. Raspberry fruit is at the fore, but it’s the tension between a mineral, stony backbone and the plush effervescence which really delights. 18 months’ bottle age gives this roundness and complexity.
Domäne Wachau, Riesling Amphora 2019
You expect world-beating, classically-styled Gruner Veltliner and Riesling from Domäne Wachau, and the current vintages didn’t disappoint. But the star of the show is the amphora-aged Riesling. Fermented and aged on the skins in clay, for five weeks then five months respectively, this ‘natural’ Riesling is delicate and floral with melon and orange peel notes, a biscuity tannic crunch and a long crisp finish. Very small batch and very different.
Castellani, 'St. Giorgio' Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2019, Toscana IGT
A new addition to the González Byass stable, Castellani’s Tuscan range is confident and modern-edged. Take this Vino Nobile di Montepulciano; it’s bright and firm with none of that old-school dusty fruit… there's fresh red cherry fruit, and depth behind it. It pings on the palate with a lovely sparky acid line. “This is the point,” says fifth generation winemaker Giacomo Castellani.
Zind-Humbrecht, Gewurztraminer Roche Calcaire 2020, AOC Alsace
Like many people I approach Gewurztraminer with caution. Too many times I have encountered full-blown bingo hall aromatics and thin, flabby acidity with this grape. Not so here, Zind-Humbrecht’s Roche Calcaire is a delight; it's dry and generous, perfumed but powerful and that perfume is focussed with rose petal and red apple notes. It’s punchy for sure but knows exactly what it is and finishes with a lovely, tangy dry note.
Jean Bouchard, Santenay Blanc 2019 and Mercurey Rouge 2019
With 13 wines on show including many from key appellations such as Chablis 1er Cru and Gevrey Chambertin, it was interesting to get to know the Bouchard range. The Santenay Blanc was lovely; clean and balanced with lemons and lilies, chalk and butterscotch. The red which impressed most was the Mercurey from 2019, which was spicy and savoury with redcurrant fruit and a grippy, earthy finish.
Neil Ellis, Piekenierskloof Grenache 2017, WO Piekenierskloof
From grapes grown on ungrafted vines, this is just beautiful. It’s got that Western Cape crunchy red fruit, but also a layer of more developed notes of rooibos tea and fine earth. It wears its age well, and is so bright and alive, this has the tannic structure and youthfulness to easily hold it together for the next eight years and beyond.
Jackson Estate, Vintage Widow Pinot Noir 2019, Marlborough
Fruit grown on glacial and alluvial soils is fermented separately then blended and aged for 14 months in oak (25% new). This is slick without being too polished. It’s minty with violet and rose notes and dark berry fruit. Some spice and earthiness and a concentrated close.
Una Palma Fino 2024, Jerez
My note for the Tio Pepe Fino simple reads “classic”, which I think sums it up nicely. On the counter next door is the Gonzalez Byass collection of sherries including the Una Palma Fino 2024 which is stunning. Complex and delicious in equal measure; there’s nuts, and more nuts and Marmite and a cool and long spirity finish.
