I'm old enough to remember when Malbec was a somewhat obscure variety: a seasoning grape for Bordeaux blends (it is a sibling of the ubiquitous Merlot) and the backbone of the so-called "black wines" of Cahors. These latter wines tended to be austere brews with grinding tannins that required many years bottle age to soften, by which time only the very best offered real pleasure.
Meanwhile in the 1990s, the seeds of Malbec's success were being sown 12,000 kilometres south-west of Cahors, in Argentina's Mendoza region. As in France, the variety had hitherto been regarded as capricious and disease-prone; it was over-cropped in the vineyard and treated roughly in the winery.
A handful of winemakers in Mendoza began to notice that, when the variety was planted in higher, cooler sites and irrigation was restricted, Malbec was able to produce beautifully ripe, powerful, fruity reds: exactly what the international market was thirsty for. As Argentina's signature red grape, Malbec has since leapfrogged the renown of those from other New World countries (Chile's Carmenère, South Africa's Pinotage...), taking its place alongside New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc as an essential fixture on any wine list.
Since then, France has rushed to claim its share of the success of a variety that is, after all, its own. In its home vineyards of Cahors, grapes began to be picked later and extractions became softer, giving riper, more approachable wines.
Pays d'Oc produces around 30,000 hectolitres of Malbec each year
Malbec is perfectly at home in the vineyards of Pays d'Oc IGP, where it has in fact long been planted, especially in the foothills of the Pyrenees. Just like in Mendoza, plentiful sunshine, a patchwork of cool microclimates and modern winemaking techniques have helped the variety to shine ever brighter. Some producers even talk about the influence of altitude, hitherto an Argentine USP – although nowhere in Pays d'Oc gets anywhere near the heights of the Andean vineyards! Crucially, in Pays d'Oc, Malbec (which is know as Côt in Cahors) proudly wears its name on bottle labels.
Soil type will directly influence how the Malbec vine grows and affect some characteristics of the resulting wine. Malbec vines grown on alluvial soils tend to produce wines with dark fruits and mineral-scented-earth notes; those grown on mountain and colluvial soils have smaller berries and higher concentration producing wines with softer tannins and blue-floral aromas; Malbec grown on limestone soils tends to be more fine and floral with higher acidity.
A key feature of Pays d'Oc IGP is, of course, the enormous range of different soils and climats, in a region that stretches all the way from the Pyrenees in the south, eastwards to the banks of the Rhône. Styles consequently vary enormously, from dark, brooding Malbecs to those with almost New World levels of exuberance, although always with a strong southern French accent.
Pays d'Oc IGP produces around 30,000 hectolitres of Malbec each year, which puts it in the middle of the field among the 23 permitted red varieties – for comparison, more than a million hectolitres of Merlot were squeezed in 2023! I expect to see a steady increase in production in the next few years, as Malbec's star continues to rise in France's Pays d'Oc.
A dozen top Malbecs from Pays d'Oc put to the taste test
Malbec 2023, Domaine Font-Mars, 13%
Situated near the banks of the Étang de Thau, the Font-Mars estate has created this fresh, unoaked Malbec, grown on clay-limestone soils, benefitting from cool Mediterranean breezes. The wine has a deep violet colour and spicy, slightly vegetal black fruit aromas. On the palate, the attack is intense, spicy, even slightly leathery; the flavours soften out into an almost creamy delicacy, with dark fruits and an attractive tannic bite at the very end. Enjoy with rare-cooked fillet steak. RRP €10 at cellar door.
Seeking distribution in the UK
"Malbec par Gilles Foussat" 2021, Domaine Rose & Paul, 12%
Domaine Rose & Paul is located in the Malepère hills, at the very western extremity of Pays d'Oc, heavily influenced by the Atlantic climate. It's no surprise then that Malbec thrives here. This is by far the most delicate wine of the selection, further softened by a few years in bottle. It shows a relatively pale (for Malbec) ruby colour, with surprisingly floral scents mixed with wild berries, and a whiff of undergrowth as secondary aromas begin to develop. The mouthfeel is silky soft, with open, spicy flavours and good amplitude. A must-try with mushroom risotto. RRP €10 at cellar door
Seeking distribution in the UK
"Harmonie" Malbec 2023, Domaine de l'Herbe Sainte, 14%
In the eastern part of the Minervois zone, this deeply-coloured purplish Malbec comes from vineyards strewn with large pebbles, reminiscent of those found in the southern Rhône – and there's definitely something Rhône-ish about the wine's spiced blackberry and raspberry aromas, which need a little time to emerge fully. Creamy bramble fruit appears on the palate too, with a juicy middle and a muscular, tannic finish, rounded out by a six-month stint in barrel. Drink with rich game dishes. RRP £14.95.
Available from: UK importer – Joie de Vin
"Original" Malbec 2023, Anne de Joyeuse, 13.5%
The Anne de Joyeuse cooperative cellar in situated in Limoux, at the western fringe of Pays d'Oc, with clay-limestone vineyards and a cool sub-Pyrenean climate in which the Malbec grape has always thrived. This one is partially oak-aged for six months, with a deep purple colour and straightforward blackberry and liquorice nose, seasoned with black pepper. Silky on the palate with liquorice and plum flavours and good acidity. Serve with grilled chicken in rich tomato-based sauces.RRP €9 at cellar door
Seeking distribution in the UK
"Le Versant" Malbec 2022, Vignobles Foncalieu, 14%
The Foncalieu cooperative cellar is located amid the cooler, Atlantic-influenced vineyards west of Carcassonne, so it is a surprise that this Malbec is a recent addition to their Le Versant varietal range. Its bright, relatively transparent cherry red hue hints at a gentle extraction process, while its aromas (as is often the case with the Le Versant range) open up in the glass. With a little air, blackberry, black cherry and blueberry aromas emerge, while the palate is rich and fleshy, with chocolate and blackberries. The tannins are firm but well-managed. A great choice for fans of sautéed kidneys. RRP £9.
Available from: UK importer – Inverarity / Bibendum
Malbec 2023, Domaine la Provenquière, 13%
La Provenquière is a stately 15th Century château-estate near Béziers, producing an excellent range of varietal Pays d'Ocs. This is a pure, unoaked Malbec from cooler north-facing, clay-limestone slopes. It offers an intense dark hue and ripe wild berry aromas that open nicely with a swirl of the glass. Soft flavours of cherries and plums are underpinned by grippy tannins and a satisfying earthiness. A great winter warmer to accompany lamb or beef stews. RRP €8.50 at cellar door.
Available: direct from the estate
"Les Fleurs Sauvages" Malbec 2021, Abbotts & Delaunay, 13%
This is an oaked blend of Malbec grapes harvested from a variety of cooler sites, from the slopes of the Orb Valley, in the Hérault, to the Western Aude via the village of Marseillette, the site of the Abbotts & Delaunay estate. It has a bright, deep ruby colour, with brooding liquorice, dark chocolate and cherry aromas – still very youthful three years into its life. Big and voluptuous on the palate with dark berry fruits, a firm tannic bite and plenty of length. This is a serious wine for the money. A daring alternative match for rich chocolate puddings. RRP £9.99.
Available from: UK importer – Majestic Wine
"Villa Blanche" Malbec 2023, Calmel & Joseph, 14%
The Calmel & Joseph négociant estate is based in the foothills of the Corbières hills, just south-east of Carcassonne. This partially oaked Malbec is almost opaque in colour, with a complex nose, reticent at first, then quickly opening into violets, dark chocolate and spiced plums. It's full and spicy on the palate, soft and generous with the Villa Blanche range's trademark explosive juicy fruit flavours – dark fruits, raspberry, coffee and vanilla – that just keeps building. Perfect with duck confit. RRP £10.
Available from: UK importer – Daniel Lambert
"Les Jamelles" Malbec 2022, 13%
You can set your watch by the Les Jamelles brand, and this Malbec does not disappoint. Pure liquorice and damsons on the nose. Plenty of spice. The palate begins with an intense attack of dark fruits and spice, developing into a softer finish on which the wine's oak ageing makes its presence felt, with broad vanilla flavours. A natural partner for Mexican cuisine. RRP €8.30 at cellar door.
Seeking distribution in the UK
"Réserve" Malbec 2023, Domaines Paul Mas, 13.5%
From Domaines Paul Mas's Réserve Single Vineyard Collection, this Malbec comes from limestone and gravel vineyards nestled in the foothills of the Pyrenees. Deep ruby in colour, it has a very pure cassis and liquorice nose, only faintly influenced by its brief passage in oak. Frank and fruity on the palate, this wine is all about the attack, which is as ripe as it is flattering, packed with berry fruit. A fine match for grilled meats – but save some for the cheeseboard. RRP £9.95.
Available from: UK importer – Cheers Wine Merchant
"Terroir d'Altitude" Malbec 2023, Fortant de France, 13.5%
A modern style Malbec in deceptively traditional packaging. Grapes are grown on a complex patchwork of soils (clay, limestone, sandstone, from various eras) in the lower reaches of the Montagne Noire and harvested at night to preserve their freshness. Opaque purple in colour, the nose is packed with blackberry, damson and vanilla. Juicy damsons and liquorice fill the mouth, accompanied by good acidity and firm tannins. Time in wood (small barrels) is limited to four months and, while its influence is clear, it remains in balance with the ripe fruit flavours. Drink with tajine or other North African fare. RRP €6.30 at cellar door
Seeking distribution in the UK
"Les Gaillards" Malbec 2023, Domaine Pujol, 13%, Organic wine
This is an excellent value Malbec from Domaine Pujol, from sandy clay soils in the western part of the Minervois zone. It is pure and unoaked, medium-deep in colour, with sappy blackcurrant leaf and plum aromas. Cassis, raspberry and kirsch flavours, a ripe mid-palate, notable acidity and a curt tannic bite on the finish. A great pairing for roasted vegetable ragout. RRP £16.40.
Available from: Made In Little France
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