In 1976, nestled in the picturesque hills of Montalcino, Tuscany, Poggio Antico was founded. Since then, the winery has been a quiet yet significant player in the world of Brunello di Montalcino. While its reputation may not be as universally known as some other Montalcino producers, Poggio Antico has consistently demonstrated a commitment to terroir-driven, elegant, and complex wines that reflect both the soil and the climatic conditions of its high-altitude vineyards.
Walter Speller (l) introduces the wines along with (l-r) Pier Giuseppe D’Alessandro, Alessio Sostegni and export and marketing director Riccardo Bogi
The tasting I attended at London's Hide restaurant was organised by Poggio Antico and Walter Speller, my colleague and the Italian wine expert for Jancis Robinson. Speller’s affection for this under-the-radar estate in Montalcino was evident from the start.
“These wines have always stood out,” he said, recounting how they shone in blind tastings at the Consorzio di Montalcino. He emphasised how Poggio Antico’s wines, year after year, speak of their place – terroir-driven, savoury, and marked by a minerality that sets them apart from the fruit-forward styles many producers now favour.
I couldn’t help but reflect on my recent trip to Valpolicella, where I’d seen winemakers moving away from the dense, high-alcohol Amarone styles in favour of more elegant expressions of their grapes. This tasting of Poggio Antico’s Brunello offered an intriguing contrast – beautiful wines that showcased finesse and minerality. Yet, with some vintages creeping up to 15% alcohol, it made me wonder: is Brunello, too, feeling the heat of global warming?
Poggio Antico is set on some of the highest sites in Montalcino
An unique position
Poggio Antico, perched on some of the highest vineyards in Montalcino at an altitude of up to 575 metres, benefits from a cooling breeze from the Tyrrhenian Sea, just 50 kilometres away. This constant ventilation plays a critical role in moderating the heat, while the elevation allows the grapes to ripen slowly, contributing to the wines' structure and elegance.
As Pier Giuseppe D’Alessandro, the general manager, points out, "It is so windy up there that it helps naturally ventilate the vineyards, keeping diseases like peronospora at bay and ensuring healthy ripening."
The estate’s 35 hectares of vineyards are rooted in galestro (marl) and limestone soils, which surfaced from the seabed during the Cretaceous period. This chaotic yet harmonious mix of soils is ideal for cultivating Sangiovese, the grape responsible for Poggio Antico’s renowned Brunello di Montalcino.
The team meticulously manages each "unit of soil" separately, as D’Alessandro explains: “We discovered 15 different kinds of soil at Poggio Antico. Each soil is managed differently, from pruning to harvest, ensuring every plot can express its unique character.”
In 2017, Poggio Antico was acquired by Marcel van Poecke through Atlas Invest, ushering in a new era of investment and innovation. Under the leadership of Pier Giuseppe D’Alessandro and winemaker Alessio Sostegni, the estate underwent significant modernisation, including the transition to organic farming, which was certified in 2020. The team focuses on preserving and nurturing the health of the soil, using organic fertilisers and green cover crops to enhance soil vitality.
A vertical journey
This vertical tasting of Poggio Antico Brunello di Montalcino, with history stretching back to several decades, was a fascinating way to see evolution in the estate's winemaking. Over the years, Poggio Antico has shifted from using heavier oak to a more balanced approach that emphasises the natural characteristics of the grape and terroir. Meanwhile, rising alcohol levels in recent vintages reflect the warming climate, a challenge faced by many producers in the region.
The tasting began with the 2020 Poggio Antico Brunello di Montalcino, the first fully organic certified vintage. This wine is still in its infancy but already displaying harmony and promise. On the nose, delicate hints of cherry, graphite, subtle lemon grass, and rucola wafted from the glass, while the palate revealed a young wine with a quiet but steady structure and remarkable balance.
A higher percentage of galestro soils used in this vintage contributes to the wine's bright acidity and freshness. 15% abv. Late frost resulted in a significantly lower yield (1.2 tons per hectare), intensifying the concentration of the remaining fruit.
2019 Poggio Antico Brunello di Montalcino - Open and inviting, with aromas of lime, cranberry, and a touch of graphite. A well-balanced wine with fine-grained tannins and excellent length. Bright fruit and a charming character define this vintage, which benefitted from well-timed rainfall and long ripening periods. 15% abv. A harmonious blend of all the estate's soils, showcasing a vintage with ideal conditions for balanced ripeness.
2013 Poggio Antico Brunello di Montalcino - Coastal influences come through with sea breeze and iodine, alongside fennel, cocoa, and fresh floral notes. Lush acidity and refined, fine-grained tannins create a delicate yet persistent structure. The wine finishes with a fragrant, lingering kick of iodine. 14% abv.
The cooler temperatures of this vintage forced selective harvesting, with 25 people meticulously sorting each berry for quality.
2010 Poggio Antico Brunello di Montalcino - Nutmeg, dried flowers, dark jam, and lilies lend this vintage a complex aromatic profile. Muscular tannins provide a powerful finish, balanced by sweet, crunchy fruit, long finish. Despite the vintage's slow development, tertiary notes are well developed. 14% abv.
Wet winter and spring followed by a cool growing cycle. Late harvest in October resulted in a vintage with true ageing potential.
2001 Poggio Antico Brunello di Montalcino - Notes of graphite, dark chocolate, and cigar intermingle with cherry jam and bright acidity. Tannins are well-integrated, driving a rustic yet enduring length. This wine is a perfect example of reductive ageing, showcasing the estate's ability to craft wines that evolve gracefully over time. 13.5% abv. A small crop due to April frosts. Dry June and July followed by wet August and September, challenging the harvest but resulting in well-structured wines.
1994 Poggio Antico Brunello di Montalcino - Caramelised notes of smoke, toffee and coffee, with a distinct oxidative character. Despite its age, the wine retains a supple acidity, with flavours of turmeric, nutmeg, and sweet, crunchy red fruit. It presents an evolved yet still captivating profile, reminiscent of a wise grandfather sharing rich stories. 13.5% abv. A wetter year, contributing to its evolved character and depth.
1990 Poggio Antico Brunello di Montalcino - Fresh cherry, peppermint, and white pepper. Tannins are refined and coating, with a radiant quality that reflects the sunshine of Montalcino. Balanced and bright, this vintage continues to offer vibrancy. 13.5% abv.
1988 Poggio Antico Brunello di Montalcino - Delicate floral aromas of mimosa, white flowers, and cocoa. A complex start of soy sauce and coffee leads into sweet red fruit, finishing with a savoury, succulent length. This wine exemplifies balance in its maturity, offering a harmonious and nuanced experience. 13% abv.
Winemaking philosophy
As winemaker Alessio Sostegni explains, “We harvest each parcel separately and ferment them individually, giving us many options when blending and allowing us to express the full complexity of Poggio Antico”. Each vineyard block is harvested, fermented, and aged separately, allowing the unique characteristics of the estate's diverse soils to shine. The use of both concrete and large Slavonian oak barrels for ageing helps maintain the purity of fruit while softening the wine's tannins.
In 2026, Poggio Antico plans to unveil a new state-of-the-art winery designed by renowned architect Marco Casamonti that will incorporate gravity-fed winemaking techniques, minimising the need for pumps and ensuring a gentler handling of the fruit. This investment reflects the estate's ongoing commitment to sustainability and quality.
