Earlier this year, I tasted over a hundred Baroli from the 2020 vintage at the annual Nebbiolo Prima held in Alba. This was the lockdown year when winemakers stayed at home and spent more time tending their vines than travelling the world to visit clients. The growing season in 2020 was protracted. Spring and summer were mild and sunny, interspersed with sufficient rain. August was cooler giving the grapes time to slowly come to maturity. October was dry in general, and growers were able to harvest healthy grapes with perfect maturity.
In style 2020 is very forward, with some wines already approachable, not something you can often say about Barolo. The fruit is fresh, primary and ripe, the tannins more supple than 2019. There is a very good balance, concentration and structure to most wines. While they may not keep as long as 2019 or 2018, it will certainly give a lot of pleasure in the immediate future. As the wines hit our shelves, it is worth taking a fresh look. Below are my top twelve wines from the many I tasted.
The 2020 vintage at Vietti, one of the leading producers in Barolo
Vietti, Lazzarito, Serralunga d’Alba 2020 Barolo
A very seductive forward nose with fresh red fruits; intense red cherry fruits, brooding tannins and well-integrated alcohol. Needs time but a class act.
G.D. Vajra di Vaira, Bricco delle Viola 2020 Barolo
A savoury touch of liquorice on nose and palate; intense dark fruits, very finely judged tannins. Sturdy, spicy and long. Excellent young wine.
Rocche Costamagna, Rocche dell'Annunziata, La Morra 2020, Barolo
Perfumed strawberries and hay; stylish sweet ripe strawberries, nice concentration and good length, with well-integrated firm tannins. A very polished wine.
Le Strette, Bergera Pezzole, Novello, 2020 Barolo
Lovely smooth ripe dark fruits with a savoury note of liquorice and tar. Nicely integrated and almost ready to drink now.
Poderi FogliatiBarolo DOCG 2020 Treturne
A very pale colour, wonderful fragrant roses, sweet; smooth concentrated red fruits, plenty of alcohol, and good grippy tannins.
Franco Boasso Lazzarito, Serralunga d'Alba 2020, Barolo
Violets and summer fruit aromas; smooth easy plum fruits, balanced with good acidity and mouth-coating tannins.
Cavallotto Tenuta Bricco Boschis, Castiglione Falletto 2020 Barolo
Full-bodied and powerful with smooth ripe red fruits encased in a firm tannic grip; needs time but a very impressive wine.
Before the unmasking of the wines
Brovia Rocche di Castiglione, Castiglione Falletto 2020 Barolo
Cool, elegant, refined with perfectly ripe raspberry fruits, a nice spicy element and a good long tannic finish. Delicious Barolo.
Alessandria Fratelli Alessandria, Gramolere, Monforte d'Alba, 2020
Intense but closed with plenty of structured tannins and acidity, redcurrants and soy sauce finishing well.
Michele Chiarlo Barolo Cerequio 2020 La Morra, Barolo
Quite closed at first, but opens up to reveal lots of fragrant violet aromas; smooth ripe juicy red fruits. Concentrated with excellent length.
Germano Ettore, Cerretta, Serralunga d’Alba 2020 Barolo
Closed at first but opens up nicely, classic Barolo with good firm structure and acidity with raspberry and redcurrants. All very nicely integrated, just needs a bit of time.
Poderi e Cantine Oddero, Villero, Castiglione Falletto, 2020, Barolo
Explodes on the palate with crunchy sweet and sour redcurrants, raspberries and herbs. Firm and long but a very exciting wine.
